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Gruen Guild Calibre 124

WSC-GRUEN; Thu, 18 June 2020 20:59

Gruen Guild 124.

Fifteen and Seventeen Jewels.

Nine Ligne.

Three Adjustments.

Noted interchangeability w/ Calibre 176.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=6392&private=0 .

The caliber database | 3 comments

Caliber 89 (Extra Precision) – 8.75'" 18J, All Adjustments

Thu, 18 June 2020 01:39

Hey Case, could I get some information (maybe a better picture) of the watch above? I don't have it or any run of women's watches in 147xxx.

The caliber database | 32 comments

Caliber 812 - 10’” (also shown as 9 3/4’”) Aegler Rebberg Lepine (OF)

Aegler (Gruen Factory A); Tue, 16 June 2020 12:43

This example ca late 1921 or early 1922, after Rebberg stamp disappeared.

Edit: this movement actually measures 10L. As Barney highlights below, later references (post-1926) begin referring to it as 9.75L.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=6375&private=0

The caliber database | 8 comments

Caliber 151 - (Extra) Precision - 5 1/2 '"

Favre; Mon, 15 June 2020 13:44

Adding this one into the database. The 1939 standardized parts catalogue lists this as "Extra Precision" grade. Not sure what that means. Was it one of the calibers that got a gold special "Extra Precision" edition for the 50th anniversary?

It is a Gruen Watch Co. caliber--not a Guild caliber--but there is no "Precision" factory serial number. Interesting. It seems to be Favre sourced, like so many 1xx series. Not sure what additional finishing, if any, Gruen did. Perhaps just grinding a bevel on the narrow ends of the front plate?

This one adjusted for temperatures only, I'm guessing mid- to late 1920s. Coded L 19.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=6370&private=0

Here is the Favre in-house version, sold under their Delphia brand. L 335. Thanks to seller for permission to post images.

The caliber database | 10 comments

Gübelin Quadron

Circa 1933 Cal. 157; Fri, 12 June 2020 21:05

The case is sterling silver with a pale solid gold (I would say green, maybe yellow) crown guard. In some of the pictures it looks like there may be wear on the corners. They're just reflections. The unusual contours make it difficult to photograph. I believe that the movement is an actual Gruen 157. I'd normally think it just shares the same Favre ebauche as the 157...except in the lower right corner, it's marked "GR 157". So I do suspect that Gruen itself was the supplier. In this thread...

http://vintagegruen.org/vgforum/index.php?t=msg&goto=125 59&#msg_12559

...Jack said that his research suggests that this bridge arrangement started around 1933, and based on the styling, I don't think it would be much later than that, hence my estimation of 1933.

Watches from the Guild | 2 comments

Caliber 771 - WSC - 13’” - 15J

Schild WW1 Trench Watch Issue Caliber; Thu, 04 June 2020 12:48

Guess it was just a matter of time before we found a Schild in the early Gruen movements. This is the AS 137 / 153 caliber, which I think was standard issue for NCOs in WW1. Could Gruen have gotten in on that?

It’s missing setting works (will be trying to source). There are three Gruen 15J, 13L candidates. Looking at works of many other AS137, I think it could be Gruen’s 775. Thoughts? (Edit: actually the 771, see below)

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=6323&private=0

The caliber database | 3 comments

Quadron Import 220

Fri, 01 May 2020 14:53

Model name : Import 220
Type : Quadron Crown Guard
Period/date : 1930-1933
Gender : Gents

Case Maker : Unknown, Swiss made (marked Alpina Gruen)
Case Material : Two-tone, steel with rose gold
Case Serial : 45821
Case Style no :

Caliber : 175
Movement Maker : Marc Favre Co. Biel (Factory "M")
Movement Serial : A451 (?)

Bracelet : After market

Other info :
Although very similar the dial is not identical to the Import 220 model as shown in Mike Barnett's Gruen Watch Catalog (page 107). This catalog also shows a second dial variation called Import 223.

Caliber 175 is a big unknown to me. There is no reference in any of the Gruen documentation available to me of this caliber. Though it is not a "Precision" or "Extra Precision" grade, the level of finishing is to a high standard when comparing to similar calibers like the 325 or 157. Not only the beautiful surface finishing on all sides, but also the one-piece milled yoke and the fact it has an intermediate setting wheel are indications this is a high grade movement.

My feeling is that it could have been produced by Marc Favre Co., Biel. Reason for that is Gruen was also sourcing their 157 and 165/167 Quadron calibers from M. Favre and the escape design is the same or very similar to caliber 157 (but maybe not unique to M. Favre?). Another point is I was able to carry over the detent screw from a 165 which was broken on my 175. I tried detent screws from many different Gruen calibers, but none of them fitted, the detent screw of the 165 was literally identical to the one on the 175. Also the set bridge design of caliber 165 resembles the design of this 175.

EDIT : Information has been updated in line with new info provided by fellow Gruenites. The movement is confirmed as caliber MF175, produced by Marc Favre Co.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=6282&private=0

1930's | 10 comments

Gruen SUPER-G

Another example; Fri, 01 May 2020 13:18

Model name :Super-G
Type : 24h Jump movement
Period/date :1957-1958
Gender : Gents

Case Maker : Unknown, but most likely Swiss made
Case Material : Steel
Case Serial : 191864
Case Style no : 1108

Caliber : 422RSS
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial : NA

Bracelet : After market IW SUISSE

Other info :
The dial is most likely a re-dial. Although there are various dial variations of the SUPER-G, the two most common dials are one featuring a centrally positioned gold bordered diamond shape and a version with four 90 degree circular gold lines (both with gold surrounds of the 12, 3, 6 and 9 windows). These are found with and without SUPER-G printed above the 6 position.

Having said that, there is an argument the dial could be factory original. The "factory quality" of the print and dial finish and the fact this is a sunburst dial as opposed to the dials described above, make me belief it could also be factory original. If so, I have yet to find another example to confirm this is true. So until then I will have to assume this is a re-dial.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=6276&private=0

1950's and Up | 7 comments

Help with identification

Precision Autowind; Sat, 04 April 2020 22:54

Model name : Unknown
Type : Precision
Period/date : 1955
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Apex
Case Material : 10K Gold filled
Case Serial : N13527
Case Style no : 480

Caliber : 480-899
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial: ??

Bracelet : - -

Other info :

1950's and Up | 0 comments

Curvex Captain

Thu, 19 March 2020 17:33

Model name : Captain
Type : Curvex
Period/date : 1951 - 1953 (?)
Gender : Male

Case Maker : ???
Case Material : 10K Gold filled
Case Serial : D277658
Case Style no : 370 / 750

Caliber : 370
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial: D 866998

Bracelet : - -

Other info : The Captain is shown in an ad in “The Windsor Star” of January 9, 1953 (thanks to Barney, who found it!). Dial has a crosshair pattern. Obviously, a black dial was available also.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=6200&private=0