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Re: Circa 1925 14k Green Gold Gruen Cushion with Sweep Seconds [message #3532 is a reply to message #3530] Wed, 09 April 2014 02:23 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
C. Hurt is currently offline  C. Hurt
Messages: 229
Registered: May 2013
Gruen Guildsman
Mikey is correct in his understanding. You can also see the difference from the train side. The different layouts also require a reversal of the position of the barrel and the fourth wheel. The ratchet wheel is at 3 in a hunter movement, 12 in a Lepine (open faced) movement. With a little practice you can recognize them from the back.

Not sure it has anything to do with the composition of the dial, I rather think it was the protection of the crystal that early watch designers were worried about.

Originally most watches were hunters. Jean Antoine Lepine pioneered the open faced configuration in order to achieve a thinner watch, both with the movement and the case. By the end of the 19th century, hunters were seen as old fashioned, and open face watches were in style. This lasted until the end of the pocketwatch period.

When ladies pendant watches were applied to wristwatches, the nomenclature came with them, so we still refer movements with the traditional wristwatch layout (seconds at 6) as hunters.

[Updated on: Wed, 09 April 2014 02:33]

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