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Home » The Gruen Model Database » 1920's » Cartouche 342 (modified)
Cartouche 342 (modified) [message #14787] Thu, 22 April 2021 18:06 Go to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Model named: Frank N. Stein
Type: Cartouche
Period/date: case ca 1928
Gender: Female (but big enough to be a man's)

Case Maker: Wadsworth / Gruen
Case Material: 14k reinforced gold filled
Case Serial: 5305616
Case Style no: 153 8

Caliber: 8357B (seventeen jewels)
Movement Maker: Aegler S.A. (Factory A)
Movement Serial: 1920616

Bracelet: aftermarket leather strap

Other info: Movement stamped "GXC" --> imported 1936 or after. I bought this for the 8357 movement. I hesitated to post it, as it appears to be a frankenwatch, but the case style is not present on the forum yet. Cartouche 342 is very similar to 345, but 345 has engraved sides in addition to a bracelet.

I am debating as to keeping it as a wearer. The size is actually quite nice on my wrist, and I like the look with the dial. I note there are a couple of Strap models that used caliber 835, so I figure Fred would probably be okay with it.

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[Updated on: Thu, 22 April 2021 18:09]

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Re: Cartouche 342 (modified) [message #14788 is a reply to message #14787] Fri, 23 April 2021 18:42 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
Messages: 1904
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands
Gruen Authority
Nice find! When it fits you, it fits you. Not a small watch. Tanks are smaller... The dial doesn't look out of place. I wouldnt call it a frankenwatch. It just had a movement replacement (upgrade Smile )

I guess this is also one of the ladies sport wristlets? Mine (car 344) has the same curvy back. Is your crystal made from plastic?

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Cartouche 342 (modified) [message #14789 is a reply to message #14788] Sat, 24 April 2021 04:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Thanks! Good question on the crystal. Left it at the office, so I’ll report back Monday. I am curious to which model the dial originally belonged. Haven’t found one yet in the catalog. But a happy swap, IMO. Looking forward to tuning it up.

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Re: Cartouche 342 (modified) [message #14798 is a reply to message #14789] Mon, 26 April 2021 13:53 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Honestly, I can't tell for sure, and the old fingernail tap test is inconclusive. It looks like glass to me.

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Re: Cartouche 342 (modified) [message #14801 is a reply to message #14798] Tue, 27 April 2021 08:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
Messages: 1904
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands
Gruen Authority
Mine is easy because it yellowed. But you are right, the tap test doesn’t work. It is not soft stuff.

Other test?. Compare the temperature wit another crystal. The glass will feel colder when you touch it.

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Cartouche 342 (modified) [message #14804 is a reply to message #14801] Tue, 27 April 2021 12:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Glass it is! Felt a couple of others, and it’s cooler than plastic

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Re: Cartouche 342 (modified) [message #14807 is a reply to message #14804] Tue, 27 April 2021 15:48 Go to previous message
afire is currently offline  afire
Messages: 1331
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Gruen Authority
Wouldn't the name Frank N. Stein suggest that it was intended to be a men's watch? Not that it really matters. As Jenneke says, if it fits, it fits. One of my favorites is an Import 144 with an 835 movement. While it was cataloged in the men's Import section, I'm certain that it's smaller that your watch.
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-MbxkP5F/1/O/i-MbxkP5F.jpg

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