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Strap 110 [message #16797] Wed, 29 June 2022 18:20 Go to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
Messages: 2161
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands
Gruen Authority
Model name: strap 110
Type: strap
Period/date: 1928-1930?
Gender: male

Case Maker: wadsworth
Case Material: nickel
Case Serial: 8281395
Case Style no: 2

Caliber: 885
Movement Maker: fhf
Movement Serial: 181586

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9451&private=0
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9452&private=0
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9453&private=0
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9454&private=0
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9455&private=0

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

[Updated on: Mon, 19 September 2022 04:16] by Moderator

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16813 is a reply to message #16797] Thu, 30 June 2022 04:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1039
Registered: October 2018
Gruen Authority
I like it Jenneke! It def looks like a Strap 110. Are you doubting that? Bc that it is not a calibre 705 but looks like a cal 885 or?


https://vintagegruen.org/vgforum/index.php?t=msg&th=1692 &start=0&

[Updated on: Thu, 30 June 2022 04:34]

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16816 is a reply to message #16813] Thu, 30 June 2022 05:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
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Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands
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I like it too! The black pops out. And nickel case still ok. Pondering if I am going to try remove the radium.

I didnt have the time to do a visual check, but thanx you confirmed it is a 110.

And I see I forgot to take a closer look at the movement cal. Confused I have a 705 stem but not a 885. Ah well, next hunt started. I think it is a runner.

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16817 is a reply to message #16816] Thu, 30 June 2022 05:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
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Location: Cincinnati
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I’m sure I’ve an 885 stem, perhaps even an orphan with a crown! So lmk if there’s not an easy option that side of the pond.

And spot on dating. Fwiw, this Wadsworth case was made in early 1930.

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16827 is a reply to message #16817] Thu, 30 June 2022 22:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
afire is currently offline  afire
Messages: 1458
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin
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I thought for a second I was going to get to be the smart one and tell you all it was a cal. 315, not an 885. But I would have been wrong. This is the first time I think I've ever seen the little engraved flourishes on the balance cock of an 885. Usually that's my quick and easy way to spot a 315. I guess I'll have to think twice from now on.

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16837 is a reply to message #16827] Fri, 01 July 2022 12:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
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Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands
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Haha, that is funny. Flowers depending on the finisher?

The interesting question for me is… is it a FHF 324 (green book) or 1146 (rannft)? Assuming it fits, it is easier to find a fhf stem than a cal 885 in europe.

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16842 is a reply to message #16837] Fri, 01 July 2022 16:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gary is currently offline  Gary
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Here is a cousin of Jen's, definitely a 705 cal on the movement. The nickel is quite pitted.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9512&private=0

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9513&private=0

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9514&private=0
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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16844 is a reply to message #16842] Fri, 01 July 2022 17:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
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Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands
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Plan is to make a leather strap like yours.

Does your case also have these strange decoration between the lugs?

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9519&private=0

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

[Updated on: Fri, 01 July 2022 17:23]

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16848 is a reply to message #16844] Fri, 01 July 2022 17:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gary is currently offline  Gary
Messages: 2551
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Location: Seattle
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Yes, it does.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9520&private=0
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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16857 is a reply to message #16848] Sun, 03 July 2022 21:23 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
Messages: 2161
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands
Gruen Authority
Template for the homemade strap.
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9522&private=0

The strap stage 1.
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9523&private=0

To do, the stitching and punch holes.

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16860 is a reply to message #16857] Mon, 04 July 2022 21:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
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Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands
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Poeheee, hours later. My sweatproof strap:
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9526&private=0

And found this trademark:

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9527&private=0

Anyone seen one of these in the wild?
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9528&private=0

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16861 is a reply to message #16860] Mon, 04 July 2022 22:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JackW is currently offline  JackW
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Location: Denver
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Awesome work!

Making your own strap is rewarding in itself. I don't do leather work (yet), but have made several of the fabric "Liberty" straps and derived slider fastener for the strap 1 and related out o'doors watches.

All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16862 is a reply to message #16860] Wed, 06 July 2022 03:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Benjamin_Rush is currently offline  Benjamin_Rush
Messages: 94
Registered: June 2022
Location: USA
Gruen Apprentice
Jenneke wrote on Mon, 04 July 2022 17:12

Anyone seen one of these in the wild?
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9528&private=0
This is not Gruen, but the strap is of the same era, and of a similar two-tone design to the Black Overlay straps:

https://www.joseph-watches.com/all-products/liema-nos-fab-su isse-chromium-nickel-1940s-4/

[Updated on: Wed, 06 July 2022 03:13]

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16868 is a reply to message #16862] Thu, 07 July 2022 15:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
afire is currently offline  afire
Messages: 1458
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin
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Wow, that's an awesome strap. If it wasn't € 750 for an obscure mid-level watch in a nickel case, I might buy it just for the strap.

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16938 is a reply to message #16868] Mon, 11 July 2022 19:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
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Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands
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And the winding stem for FHF 1146 10.5 does fit the cal 885. You can buy different variants like 10.5’’’ or 13’’’. Not sure if that has to do with the length or these are for different movements.

Now I need a crown. The crowns I have are to modern (90=tap 10). I think this needs a tap 8 (but my caliper is acting weird). Can someone confirm?

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16940 is a reply to message #16938] Mon, 11 July 2022 21:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
afire is currently offline  afire
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I think all men's Gruen crowns were tap 8 at this time.

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16943 is a reply to message #16940] Tue, 12 July 2022 18:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
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Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands
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What has been seen, cannot be unseen. The small stitches on Gary’s strap and the Gruen twotone advertisement. The old unknown tool I had (now I know it is called a tracing wheel).

I made one!
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=9583&private=0

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16944 is a reply to message #16943] Tue, 12 July 2022 18:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
afire is currently offline  afire
Messages: 1458
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Location: Wisconsin
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Inspiring. Yet another hobby to plan to take up and then probably not take up.

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #16949 is a reply to message #16943] Tue, 12 July 2022 19:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
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Location: Cincinnati
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Bravo!!

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #17048 is a reply to message #16949] Fri, 22 July 2022 13:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
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The crown is… a tap7! Maybe because I bought the fhf winding stem, but be aware.

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #18517 is a reply to message #16938] Tue, 08 August 2023 20:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
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Jenneke wrote on Mon, 11 July 2022 21:39
And the winding stem for FHF 1146 10.5 does fit the cal 885.
I have to correct myself. The watch movement has been in a tray for a year. Tried to assemble it but… I now think it almost fits, but not enough.

When the stem is completely pushed in, the setting lever is not sitting in its notch. But I dont have a stem or movement to compare it with.
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=10667&private=0
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=10668&private=0

So,if someone has good pictures to show me I am right (or stupid  :roll: ), please share them.
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You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #18518 is a reply to message #18517] Wed, 09 August 2023 09:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Barney Green
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Looks to me like the FHF 1146 stem finally does not fit if you bought that one. This would be the proof that in reality the FHF 324 is the base movement for Gruen's 885.

Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #18533 is a reply to message #18518] Thu, 10 August 2023 22:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jenneke is currently offline  Jenneke
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Registered: May 2013
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First I am going to try to alter this stem (make square bit longer). First search for a FHF 324 stem wasnt succesfull. If that doesnt work I supose I have to get a fresh  885 stem from the USA. Or a spare movement. Pff, watchmaking isnt easy.  :?

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #18534 is a reply to message #18533] Thu, 10 August 2023 22:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gary is currently offline  Gary
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Watchmaking = Life is a gamble!

On the flip side I'm looking for a decoder sheet to tell me which stems I have. I'm sure there is an 885 in there.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=10676&private=0
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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #18547 is a reply to message #18534] Mon, 14 August 2023 16:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JackW is currently offline  JackW
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Gary, I have the decoder sheet. I'll make a scan when I find it. It is in the garage atm. The basement where my shop was is currently being stored in the garage.

All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

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Re: Strap 110?- 705 2 [message #18548 is a reply to message #18547] Mon, 14 August 2023 16:30 Go to previous message
Gary is currently offline  Gary
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Jen already made copies for me, thanks Jack!

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