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Vintage Style Straps [message #17362]

Wed, 28 September 2022 17:37

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

With the apparent demise of IW, I've been struggling with where to get vintage style unpadded straps with the full stitching, including the lug ends. I've said this before, but it's baffling to me that this style of strap was the industry standard for a half a century and then all but disappeared without a trace. This place has them in a variety of sizes, colors and materials:
https://accurate-form.jp/

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0334/4492/1476/products/JPcowhide-black1_1600x.jpg

They're in Japan and not cheap, but also not prohibitively expensive if you want to complete the "look" of a nice watch vintage. I just ordered three and shipping was free. The only thing that bums me out is that 16mm is their smallest size and the size I find myself in need of the most often is 14mm.

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #17363 is a reply to message #17362]

Wed, 28 September 2022 17:46

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

Another word about the price. The IW straps look nice and were inexpensive, but they were also poor quality. The color rubs or flakes off, edges get worn and they start looking ratty pretty quickly. I had straps for a couple of my watches custom made by a Japanese shop. This was over 10 years ago and those straps show virtually no signs of wear aside from the buckle crease. Some of the NOS vintage straps that I've used have been similarly durable. I'm hoping that these are of similar quality and if so, I think paying three times as much for one of these as I did for an IW pigskin strap will turn out to be a better value in the long run.

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #17366 is a reply to message #17363]

Fri, 30 September 2022 10:27

Jenneke
Messages: 1960
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands

Gruen Authority

https://www.fratellowatches.com/torre-straps-how-my-search-f or-the-ultimate-vintage-watch-strap-came-to-an-end/

I’ve heard that the Vietnam based Hoang Dat does good jobs and 14mm custom orders are possible. He is on facebook, insta and think this is his website:
https://www.hdstraps.com/

Not cheap, dutch, order can be emailed for other sizes (and wishes):
https://www.dstrap.com/product/vintage-1960-waxed-brown-watc h-band/

And here is a list from the dutch horlogeforum with custom made bands which might give some other options:
https://www.horlogeforum.nl/t/custom-made-horlogebanden-van- a-tot-z/136368

Or… make them yourself!

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

[Updated on: Fri, 30 September 2022 10:30]

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #17367 is a reply to message #17366]

Fri, 30 September 2022 16:21

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

Those Torre straps look amazing. I've already sent him an email.

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #17379 is a reply to message #17367]

Sun, 02 October 2022 01:25

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

Quick update. I ordered three straps which qualified me for free shipping. I ordered on Tuesday and somehow they were delivered on Friday, three days later, from Japan. The quality is exquisite. I would highly recommend these to anyone.

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #17380 is a reply to message #17379]

Sun, 02 October 2022 18:06

Gary
Messages: 2164
Registered: May 2013
Location: Seattle

Gruen Authority
Cheerleader

With the strong dollar and the famdamly going to Toyko this winter I'll make a stop into Minamiaoyama. See if we can get a bulk order on the cheap! ;-)

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #17397 is a reply to message #17380]

Mon, 03 October 2022 17:49

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

Good idea. Strap salesman can be your new side hustle.

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #17524 is a reply to message #17397]

Sat, 22 October 2022 20:37

Gary
Messages: 2164
Registered: May 2013
Location: Seattle

Gruen Authority
Cheerleader

Got tickets for Japan in December, yosh!

On a side note picked up some vintage JB Champion straps at the local mart this morning. They don't have the lug edge stitching but a buck for all 5...you can't pass on these! Scandia calf are the better ones in the bunch.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=10093&private=0

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=10093&private=0

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=10094&private=0

Attachment: IMG_4993.jpg
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Attachment: IMG_4995.jpg
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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18207 is a reply to message #17379]

Mon, 17 April 2023 21:48

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

afire wrote on Sat, 01 October 2022 20:25

Quick update. I ordered three straps which qualified me for free shipping. I ordered on Tuesday and somehow they were delivered on Friday, three days later, from Japan. The quality is exquisite. I would highly recommend these to anyone.

I finally got around to putting one on a watch. It's hard to judge from a picture, but they are really nicely made, very sturdy and crisp. Probably a better value than the IW straps that cost about 1/3 as much but didn't hold up well to regular wearing. I have the feeling this strap will not need replacing in my lifetime.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Music/Hotlinking/i-9JdpXRr/0/f36da575/X3/IMG_1688-X3.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Music/Hotlinking/i-zVQtCR3/0/fb3a7df7/X3/IMG_1692-X3.jpg

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18208 is a reply to message #17366]

Mon, 17 April 2023 21:53

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

Jenneke wrote on Fri, 30 September 2022 05:27

https://www.fratellowatches.com/torre-straps-how-my-search-f or-the-ultimate-vintage-watch-strap-came-to-an-end/

And I've received one strap from Torre and have another on the way. Once again, outstanding craftsmanship. I'd like to have his straps on all my watches. But my wallet will restrain me. I'll restrict myself to watches for which I can't obtain this style in a given size or length. One example being Strap 1. Nobody makes a vintage style open ended strap at a 23 mm width. I now have the strap but the watch is in the shop presently. I'll post a couple pics when it's back.

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18211 is a reply to message #18208]

Tue, 18 April 2023 17:48

Jenneke
Messages: 1960
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands

Gruen Authority

That sounds like a success! Great.

I still make my own. Green fish leather needs the stitching done. The pigskin is in the “just started” phase.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=10466&private=0

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=10466&private=0

Attachment: 7992C054-197C-4748-AB8E-909B4C8A8344.jpeg
(Size: 145.49KB, Downloaded 1273 times)

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18219 is a reply to message #18211]

Wed, 19 April 2023 14:35

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

That green looks pretty sharp!

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18225 is a reply to message #18219]

Wed, 19 April 2023 18:36

Jenneke
Messages: 1960
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands

Gruen Authority

Whaha thanks. Getting the hang of it. Use a chinese leather repair kit for the edges. Most difficult part is cutting straight (and not into the ruler). bought some sort of a cutting wheel that hopefully does the trick.

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18278 is a reply to message #18225]

Wed, 10 May 2023 19:40

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

And here is my first Torre strap (thanks again Jenneke for posting about him here):

https://photos.smugmug.com/Music/Hotlinking/i-FJHRtSJ/0/c24427c9/X3/IMG_1727-X3.jpg

It's wasn't easy to find any 23mm open-ended strap the first time I had to get one for this watch and finding one with the fully stitched lug ends was never going to happen. Notice the incised line around the edges. It's a perfect match to what's shown in plate 23B the 1918 book.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Other/Gruen-Guild-Book-A-1/i-pvWfw5Q/0/f7b47fff/O/Book1926-39.jpg

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18280 is a reply to message #18278]

Wed, 10 May 2023 19:46

Jenneke
Messages: 1960
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands

Gruen Authority

Wow, that is a very very nice strap!

Have to find out how to make that incised line.

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18282 is a reply to message #18280]

Thu, 11 May 2023 01:18

JackW
Messages: 1976
Registered: May 2013
Location: Denver

Gruen Authority
Head Janitor
Site Admin

Afire, that is a nice band.

Watch looks familiar too.

All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18283 is a reply to message #18282]

Thu, 11 May 2023 03:43

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

JackW wrote on Wed, 10 May 2023 20:18

Afire, that is a nice band.

Watch looks familiar too.

Indeed this watch has been the beneficiary of your skills. Your service got me a few years out of it before the loose canon pinion reappeared. I truly don’t understand this issue. I feel like it should be able to be fixed with a pinch of some needle nose pliers :lol: , but obviously it’s not that simple.

[Updated on: Thu, 11 May 2023 14:55]

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18284 is a reply to message #18283]

Thu, 11 May 2023 15:12

JackW
Messages: 1976
Registered: May 2013
Location: Denver

Gruen Authority
Head Janitor
Site Admin

That CP is an issue for this watch as I recall. Did you get it resolved? or is it still need fixing? You are welcome to send back to me, but I would wait until this fall. Basement is going to get remodeled this summer and need to move out of my work space soon.

All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18287 is a reply to message #18283]

Fri, 12 May 2023 06:22

Jenneke
Messages: 1960
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands

Gruen Authority

afire wrote on Thu, 11 May 2023 05:43

I truly don’t understand this issue. I feel like it should be able to be fixed with a pinch of some needle nose pliers :lol: , but obviously it’s not that simple.

I would expect it is that simple… There are tightening tools for it. But staking set or just a nail clippers would do.

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18289 is a reply to message #18287]

Fri, 12 May 2023 16:40

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

The canon pinion did work itself loose again. I send a bunch of watches to my regular watchmaker, including this one, and he referred to the canon pinion as being "stubborn", so I took that to mean that it probably isn't as simple as I imagine it to be. But maybe I read too much into that statement.

Back to vintage style straps, I should be posting pictures of my second Torre strap. But when I ordered it I somehow neglected to mention that it should be open ended to go with my newly reacquired green gold mystery Import. :blush: Now I have a beautifully made 14mm brown strap with no obvious watch to pair it with. In my mind brown leather pairs with green and yellow gold and black leather pairs with white and rose gold. I'll either have to hunt down a green gold watch with 14mm lugs or break my usual rules.

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18290 is a reply to message #18289]

Fri, 12 May 2023 18:53

Jenneke
Messages: 1960
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands

Gruen Authority

Whoops….

You could remove the stitching and glue and redo it on a watch. But guess that might end up uglye…

This combo looks very cool though:
https://www.coolvintagewatches.com/very-cool/vc44-ykh2c-6tzw a-9a2rl

Other option, change the hands to match the strap…. 😉

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18291 is a reply to message #18290]

Fri, 12 May 2023 20:20

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

Jenneke wrote on Fri, 12 May 2023 13:53

This combo looks very cool though:
https://www.coolvintagewatches.com/very-cool/vc44-ykh2c-6tzw a-9a2rl

Yeah, I need to be more flexible. I think my Quadron 40 would look nice with a brown strap...

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18294 is a reply to message #18291]

Sun, 14 May 2023 13:14

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

Not a bad look. I need to be less dogmatic with my strap choices.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Music/Hotlinking/i-KGBvL5T/1/4d28429b/X3/IMG_1749-X3.jpg

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18297 is a reply to message #18294]

Sun, 14 May 2023 19:24

Jenneke
Messages: 1960
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands

Gruen Authority

Fine combo!

What wild color will the next order be?

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18298 is a reply to message #18297]

Mon, 15 May 2023 00:55

JackW
Messages: 1976
Registered: May 2013
Location: Denver

Gruen Authority
Head Janitor
Site Admin

Nice!

All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18307 is a reply to message #18297]

Mon, 15 May 2023 15:12

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

Jenneke wrote on Sun, 14 May 2023 14:24

What wild color will the next order be?

Brown on white is pretty wild for me, but I'm actually considering maybe deviating from my black/brown paradigm. I need a 15mm strap, which nobody stocks in this style, so I have my excuse ready for another order.

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18313 is a reply to message #18307]

Mon, 15 May 2023 18:27

Jenneke
Messages: 1960
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands

Gruen Authority

Grey was also a Gruen sweatproof strap option… or go for the combo’s shown in the Gruen guild 1931 supplement. 😅

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18316 is a reply to message #18313]

Mon, 15 May 2023 20:09

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

Jenneke wrote on Mon, 15 May 2023 13:27

[O]r go for the combo’s shown in the Gruen guild 1931 supplement. 😅

I was actually considering that. Other than the Strap 1, the only other watches that justify the expense of a custom strap are on the narrow side and I think it would be tough to pull off. But if the right watch and need align, I will ask him.

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18317 is a reply to message #18316]

Mon, 15 May 2023 21:08

Jenneke
Messages: 1960
Registered: May 2013
Location: Netherlands

Gruen Authority

How narrow? If I can, he can do better for sure.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=10523&private=0

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=10523&private=0

Attachment: 3D2B27E3-400A-40D3-87AE-A182EF52FB3B.jpeg
(Size: 42.99KB, Downloaded 1174 times)

You can only waste time if you forget to enjoy it - Loesje

[Updated on: Mon, 15 May 2023 21:09]

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Re: Vintage Style Straps [message #18318 is a reply to message #18317]

Tue, 16 May 2023 20:09

afire
Messages: 1344
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin

Gruen Authority

14-15mm. Maybe I should reconsider.

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