| Re: Curvex Strap 541 [message #3363 is a reply to message #3358] |
Sat, 22 March 2014 16:21   |
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MikeTheWatchGuy
Messages: 319
Registered: May 2013
Location: North Carolina
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Gruen Guildsman |
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There are a number of Caliber - Style Number combinations that have quite a few different model names that use the same numbers.
One of the ones that fall into this category is 440 - 544. The Curvex Eclipse, Curvex Governor, Curvex Comet, and quite a few others reuse this 544 number. I believe there are 3, maybe 4 that are similar in the larger number of reuses than the others. I was reminded after this post that the Style Number Dating paper needs an appendix added that speaks to this so that these potholes are in the least identified.
There are also some numbers that have a mixture of calibers that use them. This can easily be seen in the large table in the paper, Figure 6 - Style Caliber Table. You can scan down the list of Style Numbers and find the number of time it was reused by multiple calibers. Some are from what we called "movement migrations", others are a simple reuse. The newest Style Number Dating software ver 2.1 now shows all of the calibers that use the style number so that it's easy to tell when you've hit one of these. Number 498 is a good example
498 - 335 422 430 435 440 3351
It should be noted that 335 and 3351 numbers are likely referring to the same watch model. Additionally the 440-498 combination was reused by several different models, the Curvex Captain being one of those for example.
You would think Gruen would have reused the same crystals for their watches quite often, but they described in one of their document why this isn't so. The height and angle of the hands along with the curvature of the dial dictated, at least to Gruen, that a new crystal was needed for most of their watch models.
Thank you for the reminder that the update needs to be added. The paper does address this situation but does not go into specific Style Numbers that fall into the heavily-ish reused category.
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