Vintage Gruen: 1940's » Curvex Grandee

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Curvex Grandee [message #4826]

Sat, 27 December 2014 01:51

notwillie
Messages: 44
Registered: June 2014

Gruen Apprentice

Model name :Grandee
Type :Curvex
Period/date :1942
Gender :Gents

Case Maker :Wadsworth
Case Material :10K GF
Case Serial :G236132
Case Style no :417

Caliber :330
Movement Maker :Gruen
Movement Serial:

Bracelet :

I got this watch off Ebay a few days ago. The pictures were of poor quality and little information in the description. I thought it was a 1941 Dunbar when I bid on it.
When I opened the watch I was pleasantly surprised to fine a clean looking 330 cal curvex with a case number 417. I think dial it is a redial. I do not know if it is the correct color? The case is in good condition. There is some brassing in the spring bar area, but not as bad as my photo appears to show. My questions are:

1. Is it a correct nice redial
2. Does this model have a name
3. What kind of a strap did it have? The lug attachment tapers down to 3 mm. Is the taper lug ends after market?

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[Updated on: Sun, 04 February 2018 20:22] by Moderator

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4827 is a reply to message #4826]

Sat, 27 December 2014 02:30

C. Hurt
Messages: 243
Registered: May 2013

Gruen Guildsman

Nice catch! Your watch is actually a Curvex Grandee, advertised Christmas of 1940, at a price of $49.75.

The dial appears to be a correct configuration, but without clearer pics, it's impossible to guess as to originality.

The link bracelet was an option, but it was also advertised with a conventional leather strap.

These often show severe wearthrough to the corners of the caseback, so if yours is as nice as the front appears, then you've got a nice one.

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4829 is a reply to message #4827]

Sat, 27 December 2014 21:52

notwillie
Messages: 44
Registered: June 2014

Gruen Apprentice

Thank you C.Hurt for the information about my watch. I have included better pictures of face and back. The pink gold color is hard to photograph without a proper light set up. The lugs seem to be in good shape.

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4836 is a reply to message #4829]

Sun, 28 December 2014 13:16

kastner
Messages: 339
Registered: May 2013
Location: Pasadena CA

Gruen Guildsman

The first thing I look for to determine if the face is original is a clean and sharp "Switzerland" at the bottom of the dial, but in this case before I even got there I noticed the PRSCISION. Confused

Confused

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4837 is a reply to message #4829]

Sun, 28 December 2014 13:58

C. Hurt
Messages: 243
Registered: May 2013

Gruen Guildsman

notwillie wrote on Sat, 27 December 2014 15:52

Thank you C.Hurt for the information about my watch. I have included better pictures of face and back. The pink gold color is hard to photograph without a proper light set up. The lugs seem to be in good shape.

That does kind of stand out. In addition, the brushed finish on the center is horizontal, rather than the vertical orientation that Gruen originally used. The colors and lettering do seem correct though. Pity about the misspelling.

There is the beginning of wearthrough on the reverse of the lug tips, but the caseback is much better than most of these. Still a nice looking Curvex.

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4841 is a reply to message #4837]

Sun, 28 December 2014 21:51

notwillie
Messages: 44
Registered: June 2014

Gruen Apprentice

Thank you for all of your information. My last question on this watch. Is the bracelet attachment removable? I would have thought that the bracelet attachment was attached by a spring bar. After several hours of attempting to remove it with a spring bar tool and a 0,8 mm screwdriver I have not felt any give on the springbar? or see any circular groves at the ends. The open grove gives a view to part of the attachment but, not a spring bar.
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[Updated on: Tue, 30 December 2014 21:05]

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4856 is a reply to message #4841]

Sun, 04 January 2015 06:44

notwillie
Messages: 44
Registered: June 2014

Gruen Apprentice

Is there any one that knows the answer to my last question?

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4857 is a reply to message #4856]

Sun, 04 January 2015 15:00

C. Hurt
Messages: 243
Registered: May 2013

Gruen Guildsman

Yes, it's removable. Someone inserted a spring bar that's the same width as the width between the lugs, so you're not seeing the spring-loaded ends. You'll probably have to cut or crush the existing bar to remove it.

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4858 is a reply to message #4857]

Sun, 04 January 2015 15:47

Barney Green
Messages: 1747
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany

Gruen Authority

To me it looks like there are pins in the holes for the spring bar which hold a crimped band end. If so, you should bend the band end upen and remove the pins with pliers.

Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4904 is a reply to message #4858]

Sat, 10 January 2015 16:14

JackW
Messages: 1931
Registered: May 2013
Location: Denver

Gruen Authority
Head Janitor
Site Admin

Sorry I'm late to the thread, been out of town and not paying too close attention.

It looks that this watch case takes the female style spring bars. If that is true and you need some, let me know. I've a bunch.

All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

[Updated on: Sat, 10 January 2015 16:40]

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4907 is a reply to message #4904]

Sat, 10 January 2015 16:39

Barney Green
Messages: 1747
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany

Gruen Authority

Female type spring bars? Never seen them. That's why I like to learn from the more experienced people in this forum!
Glad to hear that you are back, Jack, and sorry that we were not able to meet.

Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4908 is a reply to message #4907]

Sat, 10 January 2015 16:46

JackW
Messages: 1931
Registered: May 2013
Location: Denver

Gruen Authority
Head Janitor
Site Admin

Here is an example...
http://www.esslinger.com/nickel-plated-hollow-end-female-spr ing-bars-for-watch-band.aspx

As to the meeting up... no worries, I'll be back in Germany in the not too distant future. Just a lot going on with the holiday and family that made finding time difficult as I'm sure you experienced too.

All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

[Updated on: Sat, 10 January 2015 16:48]

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #4915 is a reply to message #4908]

Mon, 12 January 2015 01:40

notwillie
Messages: 44
Registered: June 2014

Gruen Apprentice

This is a follow up to the removal of bracelet attachment. Well after I was assured that the attachment could be removed, I finally had success. I was able pry off the attachment with a regular screwdriver. This left one of spring bar pins broke off in a lug. After trying gravity, gravity + taps, cleaning putty I found a true watch tool. A finger lance which is used to obtain a drop of blood for glucose meters. I used the lance to pry the spring bar tip out. The spring bars that were in the lugs were thick 18 mm. I now have my " Prscision" Gruen on a correct sized 16 mm strap. Thank all of you for your responses.

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #5596 is a reply to message #4915]

Thu, 04 June 2015 02:12

notwillie
Messages: 44
Registered: June 2014

Gruen Apprentice

The watch returned after a redial.

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #5597 is a reply to message #5596]

Thu, 04 June 2015 13:16

kastner
Messages: 339
Registered: May 2013
Location: Pasadena CA

Gruen Guildsman

That looks great notwillie. Who did the redial for you?

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #5599 is a reply to message #5597]

Thu, 04 June 2015 18:27

MikeTheWatchGuy
Messages: 319
Registered: May 2013
Location: North Carolina

Gruen Guildsman

I find it interesting that this is a caliber 330 watch that was manufactured, according to the Wadsworth case date, in 1942.

The upper limit of 330 style numbers is 475, 476. these two style numbers indicate a date of 1941. in theory that means a handful of caliber 330 watches were still being designed and released into the 1940s. They likely began being designed in the 30s with their style number being assigned later in the development process.

Also noteworthy in the style number topic is that the number 330 417 was reused on a couple of other Curvex models.

You have a beautiful watch and a case that has very very little wear and even has a signed crown that's in great condition. Congratulations on a great find and a fantastic restoration.

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Re: 330 Curvex [message #5605 is a reply to message #5599]

Fri, 05 June 2015 01:36

notwillie
Messages: 44
Registered: June 2014

Gruen Apprentice

I have all of my watches service by Vintage Watch Restoration. VWR is local(Phoenix,AZ), but Bruno does watch service internationally. I believe he said that he sent it to Kirk Dial. He gives a 9 month warranty on most of his work. Turnaround times can be slow.

Thanks Mike for your kind comments.

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