Home » The Gruen Model Database » 1950's and Up » Curvex Portrait
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| Re: Please help me identify the "name" of my Curvex [message #5067 is a reply to message #5066] |
Thu, 12 February 2015 20:06   |
C. Hurt
Messages: 243
Registered: May 2013
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Gruen Guildsman |
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Hi Jeff,
I answered your question on the NAWCC forum, but will repeat here for the benefit of those that don't frequent both sites.
Your watch is a Gruen Curvex "Portrait", first advertised in 1950. It was apparently quite popular, as they are fairly frequently seen.
The L2 leading the Wadsworth serial number indicates production in 1951-52. This ties with the observed advertisements. There were other, earlier watches using the 498 style number, so dating by that method can only tell when the style number was introduced, not when a particular watch was produced. This method is helpful for low production watches, and especially for those when there was only one use of the style number, but in many cases, including this one, it only provides a rough estimate.
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| Re: Please help me identify the "name" of my Curvex [message #5070 is a reply to message #5069] |
Thu, 12 February 2015 22:14 |
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MikeTheWatchGuy
Messages: 319
Registered: May 2013
Location: North Carolina
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Gruen Guildsman |
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I'll second that sentiment Barney.
To follow on briefly, particularly about the Style Number and its ability to date and identify this watch. The caliber-StyleNumber pair in this case is 440-498. This specific combination is known to be HEAVILY reused. What this basically means is that the Style Number dating (498=1942 if using the Style Number table) doesn't work. If you wish to learn more about the Style Number dating technique and when this sort of breakdown happens you can read the entire article a number of places including on GruenWristwatches.com.
The 440-498 combination is known to be used by at least 4 watches, the Curvex Captain, Centurion, Companion, and Portrait. The 498 was also used with an unusually large number of calibers including the 335, 3351, 422, 430, 435, 440.
I'm attaching an image from the Gruen Model ID Guide Vol 1 to show one other aspect of this watch perhaps not known to you and that is the faceted crystal that originally accompanied them. All six of the ad images I have show this faceted crystal and often mention it in the wording of the ad. I personally believe they were only sold with this crystal.
I can't tell for sure, but your watch seems to be spared from the brassing of the ropes that are often present with this model.
This is one of the ad images showing the faceted crystal.
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| Re: Please help me identify the "name" of my Curvex [message #5072 is a reply to message #5066] |
Thu, 12 February 2015 22:21 |
mikey
Messages: 709
Registered: May 2013
Location: Paris, Ontario
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Gruen Master |
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I knew that Cary would pick this one off fairly easily... 
Cary's explanation about the date differencing is correct & we've discussed that here a few times. While the style# (498) was first introduced in '42, the Wadsworth case had its own dating of when it was actually produced during this period so the correct answer for this watch would be 1952.
As for the 440, you may find that trying to source a good running 440 will cost the same as having this one cleaned/overhauled. It you want to keep it original then i would have this movement serviced rather than fitting one of the other movements Mike B mentioned. You can probably find a little more information over at Mike B's excellent site 'gruenwristwatches.com'
Still here....
[Updated on: Thu, 12 February 2015 22:29] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Please help me identify the "name" of my Curvex [message #5079 is a reply to message #5077] |
Fri, 13 February 2015 07:59 |
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Barney Green
Messages: 1747
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany
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Gruen Authority |
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My collection of ads shows the Curvex Portrait starting September 1950 and ending June 1953. Mike is perfectly correct, all nine ads are showing the watch with the faceted crystal.
Unfortunately I can't confirm with one of my watches as my collection has a gap between the styles #487 and #507, but I have again checked the ad with the names given by Mike. Neither the Captain nor the Centurion or Companion seem to have been advertised with a faceted crystal. So it is pretty much likely that the style number "only" specifies the footprint of the crystal, not the exact crystal itself. That was new to me...
Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)
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| Re: Please help me identify the "name" of my Curvex [message #5080 is a reply to message #5079] |
Fri, 13 February 2015 15:48 |
C. Hurt
Messages: 243
Registered: May 2013
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Gruen Guildsman |
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Barney Green wrote on Fri, 13 February 2015 01:59Neither the Captain nor the Centurion or Companion seem to have been advertised with a faceted crystal. So it is pretty much likely that the style number "only" specifies the footprint of the crystal, not the exact crystal itself. That was new to me...
The purpose of the style number was to allow the matching of cases produced in the USA to movements (shipped complete with dial and hands) produced in Switzerland. The style number signifies the specific dimensions and contours of the bezel opening, regardless of which movement is used, or the styling of the lugs. This made it possible to match up the proper pairing of case and movement without inspecting and measuring every time.
It also means, as you deduced, that it specifies only the footprint of the crystal, and explains why replacements often do not match the original format.
As an aside, faceted crystals, as well as colored crystals, were kind of a fad in the post WW2 years, so it doesn't surprise me that earlier cases using the 498 style number didn't use them, and the Portrait, likely being the last to use that number, did have the facets. Many other early '50s models used faceted crystals, while I don't believe that any produced in the 30s, and only a few in the late 40s did. Perhaps it had something to do with the advent of the formed, molded cylinder crystals, as opposed to the cut and ground crystals used earlier. I don't know when the cylinder crystals were introduced, but it seems like it was around that time.
[Updated on: Fri, 13 February 2015 15:50] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Please help me identify the "name" of my Curvex [message #5082 is a reply to message #5081] |
Fri, 13 February 2015 19:24 |
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Barney Green
Messages: 1747
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany
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Gruen Authority |
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Mike,
your dating method by style number always give a very good starting point when looking for a watch. It was always absolutely helpful for me. I thought that Gruen would have issued a new number for such a difference as shown with this faceted crystal vs. the plain one. But thanks to this thread we now know it better...
The strange double use of the 370 might simply have been a human error.
Barney
Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)
[Updated on: Fri, 13 February 2015 22:31] Report message to a moderator |
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