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Unknown Gruen-Weber Import Men's 14k Tank Style

Mon, 16 December 2013 21:47

Model name : Unknown
Type : Tank
Period/date : Late 1920s or early 1930s
Gender : Men's

Case Maker : Weber et Cie
Case Material : 14k White Gold
Case Serial : 200366
Case Style no : N/A

Caliber : 885
Movement Maker : Font (cal. 324)
Movement Serial: 187813

Bracelet : Leather (Non-original)

http://mccarthyorth.smugmug.com/Other/Gruen-Weber-885/i-LqCZQQp/1/L/CIMG3527-L.jpg
http://mccarthyorth.smugmug.com/Other/Gruen-Weber-885/i-xRFJPgk/1/L/CIMG3518-L.jpg
http://mccarthyorth.smugmug.com/Other/Gruen-Weber-885/i-2dcxj9h/1/L/CIMG3522-L.jpg



Other info : I don't believe this model is in the Master Book, or at least I haven't spotted a match. I've had this model before, but in 14k green gold with an enamel (non-luminous) dial (see below). The hinged case is fairly large at 39x25mm with a 19mm strap. For "wrist presence," it's roughly comparable to an Imperial Tank.

http://mccarthyorth.smugmug.com/Music/Hotlinking/i-3qmVJJS/0/O/GWY1.jpg

1920's | 3 comments

Gruen Veri-Thin 335 - 703 "Elector"

Fri, 13 December 2013 03:07

Model name : Veri-Thin Elector
Period/date : circa 1949
Gender : mens

Case Maker : DiVincenzo & Arieti
Case Material : 10k GF
Case Serial : C40477
Case Style no : 703

Caliber : 335
Movement Maker : Gruen - Norwood, Ohio
Movement Serial: 63729

Bracelet : 16mm Black Ostrich leather

Other info : Pg 73 of MB's Gruen ID Guide.

index.php?t=getfile&id=946&private=0
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1940's | 2 comments

Curvex Sentry

Sun, 17 November 2013 22:07

Model name : Sentry
Type : Curvex
Period/date : 1942-1943
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : 10K Gold Filled
Case Serial : G379368
Case Style no : 440-448

Caliber : 440
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial: 8551

Bracelet : After market leather

Other info : The Sentry is the gold filled version of the Crown and was available in yellow and pink gold filled. It was available with a number of dial color variations. Re-dial done by Int. Dial.

index.php?t=getfile&id=891&private=0
Life Magazine 1944
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Gruen sales brochure 1942
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1940's | 5 comments

Quadron 139 with Caliber 355 movement

Sat, 16 November 2013 12:15

Model name : Quadron 139
Type : Quadron
Period/date : 1930s
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Cannot identify
Case Material : 10kt yellow gold filled
Case Serial : 2305466
Case Style no : 197

Caliber : 355
Movement Maker : unknown
Movement Serial: 309392

Bracelet : Leather band (aftermarket)

Other info : I have come across a Gruen that, as best as I can tell, is ID'd in the factory records at "Quadron 139." The case is marked with the style number 197, and the watch contains the Precision (17J) Caliber 355 movement. According to factory records, Gruen only made 25 models with this caliber (possibly more, but 25 is the number pictured). The case style number of 197 would seem to indicate manufacture circa 1935 according to the Barnett/Cooper dating chart. I don't believe I've ever had a Gruen with a 355 movement before, so I have to believe these are kind of rare, or at least unusual. I love the patina on this older refinished dial ... a rich caramel color. I did a search of "355" on this forum, and came up empty, even on the Caliber database. I would enjoy hearing comments from Forum members, and of course will update the template with more information if anyone knows who made the case, the movement, etc. I would be interested in knowing what anyone might know about the movement, especially why it seemed to have such a short production run. Maybe Gruen thought the movement was redundant with the introduction of the Curvex?

Sincerely,

Bruce Shawkey
brtime

index.php?t=getfile&id=884&private=0
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1930's | 4 comments

707 - Lavina connection?

Mon, 04 November 2013 16:52

In one of my other collecting guises, I like "trench watches", an outgrowth of my looking for early Gruens. Recently, via eBay UK, I purchased a nice 9 karat gold Lavina trench watch...

index.php?t=getfile&id=870&private=0

Now, I knew I recognized the movement, which led me to pay a bit more for this one than I normally would have.The recent discussions on the board regarding the possibility that Lavina was an early contractor producing movements for Gruen sealed my interest...

index.php?t=getfile&id=872&private=0

When compared with these spares from my movement stash, one can see that it's obviously the same movement as the Gruen 707 (as well as the gilded example from West End).

index.php?t=getfile&id=871&private=0

While I would initially jump to the obvious conclusion that Lavina was the maker for the 707, I am hesitant, because I have two different documentary sources (not from Gruen) that indicate that the base movement for the 707 is the Record 022K. At this point, I don't know if Lavina and Gruen (and West End and others) were all buying movements from Record, or if the interchange manuals I've consulted simply missed the boat on who actually made the movements.

The Lavina is hallmarked for the Australian market, meaning there is no date mark, so I can't use the date to try to prove a "first maker" assertion. I assume from it's styling that it's no later than mid to late '20s, contemporary to my Gruen 707 models.

Any thoughts?

It was also an excuse to post photos of another new acquisition.

Watches from the Guild | 19 comments

The caliber 3157

Fri, 01 November 2013 12:46

Caliber 3157 is a 17-jewel movement and is 10-1/2 ligne or 23.69mm in diameter. More frequently seen is the 15-jewel version, called 315. Production start of the 315 was 1929 and the 3157 followed in 1930 (Barry C. & Mike B. dating table). Unknown if this movement was actually produced by Gruen?
Three other variants exist; calibers 344, 345 & 347 (7j, 15j & 17j). These were introduced between 1934 and 1935. No information is is known to me as to what the differences were versus the 315/3157.

index.php?t=getfile&id=861&private=0
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The caliber database | 0 comments

The caliber 480

Fri, 01 November 2013 10:42

Caliber 480 is a 17-jewel patented Auto-Wind movement and is 9-3/4 ligne by 11 ligne (453 Material Catalog). Two other variants exist, the 480SS (sweep second) and the 480-3SS (23 jewel sweep second).

It was introduced in 1951 according to Barry C. & Mike B. dating table and was the first Gruen Auto-Wind caliber with a 360º rotating rotator. Inventor of the new winding mechanism was Henri Thiébaud (Patent US2661591).

index.php?t=getfile&id=858&private=0
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The caliber database | 0 comments

Cartouche 365

not an exact match; Fri, 01 November 2013 04:17

With all the discussion on woman's watches recently, and the appearance of the below one in a price range I could afford I thought it would be worth it. Have not really looked at it too closely as I've been super busy this week. Movement looks OK, but won't run. Something is impinging on the staff otherwise the side and end-shake looks OK.

Likely will add it to the "identified" model section later. Came with the box, warranty papers and a note indicating it was a Christmas gift at some point to "mother" from "Ted, Helen and Grace" (on the back). It seems well cared for: The box is practically mint condition. The watch has hardly any wear on it, though it was certainly worn. Two distinct watch makers marks and some crud on the dial that looks like it will clean off easily. Outside photos for now; will get movement and inside case photos. Case is by Wadsworth in 14k white GF and is marked OS-63. Movement is a Caliber 153.

So here it is, a close approximation to the Cartouche 365 found on page 145 in the 1929 Guild Book.

index.php?t=getfile&id=857&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=856&private=0

...and it was less than $20 including the shipping.

edited - me: numerical dyslexia

1920's | 5 comments

Curvex Peer

Wed, 30 October 2013 21:54

Model name : Peer
Type : Curvex
Period/date : 1939
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : 14k gold filled
Case Serial : G063298
Case Style no : 330/295

Caliber : 330
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial: 518167

Bracelet : Leather with original Gruen buckle

Other info : The Peer is the second largest Curvex and is with 50mm only 2mm smaller than the Majesty. The same model with a metal link band was called Triumph.
Dial has been refinished by Int. Dial. This type of Curvex also featured a dust proof crown the same as for example the Quadron models.

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1930's | 1 comment

Siegerin marked watch

with Alpina/Gruen cal 485; Tue, 22 October 2013 18:41

Here is a watch that contains an unmarked caliber 485. Watch is branded Siegerin, which was a brand name marketed by Alpina/Straub in Germany from about 1930 through 1940. The movement is identical to Gruen marked caliber 485.
index.php?t=getfile&id=806&private=0
Came with a dust proof crown similar to other Gruen watches.
index.php?t=getfile&id=805&private=0
The case is all stainless and recently I found some evidence that Krupp, a well known metal working company in Germany which specialized in stainless steel may have made the case.

Watches from the Guild | 0 comments

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