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Cartouche 365

not an exact match; Fri, 01 November 2013 04:17

With all the discussion on woman's watches recently, and the appearance of the below one in a price range I could afford I thought it would be worth it. Have not really looked at it too closely as I've been super busy this week. Movement looks OK, but won't run. Something is impinging on the staff otherwise the side and end-shake looks OK.

Likely will add it to the "identified" model section later. Came with the box, warranty papers and a note indicating it was a Christmas gift at some point to "mother" from "Ted, Helen and Grace" (on the back). It seems well cared for: The box is practically mint condition. The watch has hardly any wear on it, though it was certainly worn. Two distinct watch makers marks and some crud on the dial that looks like it will clean off easily. Outside photos for now; will get movement and inside case photos. Case is by Wadsworth in 14k white GF and is marked OS-63. Movement is a Caliber 153.

So here it is, a close approximation to the Cartouche 365 found on page 145 in the 1929 Guild Book.

index.php?t=getfile&id=857&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=856&private=0

...and it was less than $20 including the shipping.

edited - me: numerical dyslexia

1920's | 5 comments

Curvex Peer

Wed, 30 October 2013 21:54

Model name : Peer
Type : Curvex
Period/date : 1939
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : 14k gold filled
Case Serial : G063298
Case Style no : 330/295

Caliber : 330
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial: 518167

Bracelet : Leather with original Gruen buckle

Other info : The Peer is the second largest Curvex and is with 50mm only 2mm smaller than the Majesty. The same model with a metal link band was called Triumph.
Dial has been refinished by Int. Dial. This type of Curvex also featured a dust proof crown the same as for example the Quadron models.

index.php?t=getfile&id=844&private=0
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index.php?t=getfile&id=846&private=0
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index.php?t=getfile&id=848&private=0

1930's | 1 comment

Siegerin marked watch

with Alpina/Gruen cal 485; Tue, 22 October 2013 18:41

Here is a watch that contains an unmarked caliber 485. Watch is branded Siegerin, which was a brand name marketed by Alpina/Straub in Germany from about 1930 through 1940. The movement is identical to Gruen marked caliber 485.
index.php?t=getfile&id=806&private=0
Came with a dust proof crown similar to other Gruen watches.
index.php?t=getfile&id=805&private=0
The case is all stainless and recently I found some evidence that Krupp, a well known metal working company in Germany which specialized in stainless steel may have made the case.

Watches from the Guild | 0 comments

Curvex Chandler

Wed, 16 October 2013 21:40

Model name : Chandler
Type : Curvex
Period/date : 1950-1953
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : 10k Gold Filled
Case Serial : G964408
Case Style no : 370-601

Caliber : 370 Curvametric
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial: B815682

Bracelet : Original Gruen signed pigskin with Gruen signed buckle

Other info : New old stock Curvex with original labels and warranty booklet. Case number starting with 'G9' puts the watch production date in 1949-1950. However assuming the warranty booklet came originally with the watch, the sales date was likely 1953 or later. Warranty booklet is dated 1953.

index.php?t=getfile&id=791&private=0
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index.php?t=getfile&id=793&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=794&private=0

1950's and Up | 11 comments

Veri-Thin Submarine

Tue, 15 October 2013 21:18

Please copy the fields below and paste into your post. Attach your pictures and fill out as many fields as you can. Look at other member posts for examples.

Model name : Veri-Thin Submarine
Type :
Period/date : 1951
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Star
Case Material : Guildite
Case Serial : 0504299
Case Style no : 725

Caliber : 421 in this example
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial: need to dig up from original photos

Bracelet : All ads I have show leather bracelet

Other info :

The submarine is one of the few Gruen's I've seen that the model name and look stay 100% the same, as does the Style Number, but the movement switches. It not only switches, but it goes from a round to a rectangular model.

Interesting that the 'migration' as coined in the Style Number dating article, was done in a purposeful way as can be seen using the casebacks. In the photo, one indicates a caliber 421 movement is in the watch, the other a 426.

index.php?t=getfile&id=784&private=0

[Picture Front]
index.php?t=getfile&id=781&private=0
[Picture Side]

[Picture caseback inside]
index.php?t=getfile&id=783&private=0
[Picture movement]
index.php?t=getfile&id=782&private=0
[Picture ad]
(post by MB - From the book - Gruen Watch Model Identification Guide Vol 2, page number TBD
Illustration used with permission
index.php?t=getfile&id=780&private=0

1950's and Up | 7 comments

The Caliber 94

Mon, 07 October 2013 18:36

Thanks to Thojil for the extra information: 11 lignes, 15 jewels, United Watch Co (not quite sure how they fit into the Gruen picture yet) and a "Guarantee" movement which i'm guessing is from the early 1920's?:
index.php?t=getfile&id=745&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=746&private=0

The caliber database | 0 comments

The caliber 266

Fontainemelon (FHF) movement w/51482 winding patent (Factory "T"); Sat, 05 October 2013 00:15

This unknown caliber is a 15 jewel, 10.5 ligne movement. Not a lot is known about these movements and even more of a mystery is the factory "T" marking.

Bazzab started an identification thread on the vintage forums awhile back. A Gruen dissecting team was formed, Bazzab and I dissected both of our movements.

http://vintagewatchforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=2658

The only conclusion is the movement is a Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Fontainemelon make.

index.php?t=getfile&id=725&private=0

index.php?t=getfile&id=726&private=0

The caliber database | 3 comments

Gruen Veri-Thin Elector

Wed, 25 September 2013 23:51

Model name : Veri-Thin Elector
Period/date : Early 1950's
Case Maker : D&A (DiVincenzo & Arienti, Brooklyn)
Case Material : 10K Gold Filled
Caliber : 335
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial:
Bracelet : 16mm Strap

Other info : This watch is part of the Gruen 21 Series, The first to have an American-made movement. A good site describing the Gruen 21 Series is here: http://www.pixelp.com/gruen/1945.html

index.php?t=getfile&id=673&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=674&private=0

index.php?t=getfile&id=675&private=0
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index.php?t=getfile&id=677&private=0

1950's and Up | 7 comments

Caliber 157 Engraved Bezel

Amazing Condition ; Mon, 02 September 2013 20:45

I am afraid I do not know much about this watch. I have done a dial refinish and that is of the extent of the restoration. I would love to know more. This model does have the "crystal frame insert" that helps hold the crystal in. It is a daily wearer for me as I wear my Quadrons!

Model name : Unknown
Type : Tank 15 Jewel
Period/date : 1920's
Gender : Mens

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material :14k White Gold Filled...no wear through
Case Serial : 5032646
Case Style no : 157 8

Caliber : 157
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial:123261

1920's | 1 comment

21 Jewel 14 Karat Quadron

14 Karat Yellow Gold Tank; Mon, 02 September 2013 20:21

I am not sure if the name, but this is one of my crown jewels of my growing Quadron Collection. I would appreciate any help in filling in any of the blanks about this watch

Model name : Unknown
Type : Quadron 21
Period/date :1930's
Gender : Mens

Case Maker : Katz & Ogush
Case Material : Solid 14 Karat Yellow Gold
Case Serial : 70210
Case Style no :325 241

Caliber :325 / Adjust 5 Positions
Movement Maker :Gruen Switzerland
Movement Serial: 243166

1930's | 6 comments

Vintage Gruen

The forum for Gruen watch enthusiasts.

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