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Gruen Annapolis (123)

Mon, 01 July 2013 04:08

Model name: Quadron Annapolis
Period/date: 1930
Gender: Men's
Case Maker: Wadsworth
Case Material: 14 karat gold-filled "reinforced with extra gold"
Case Serial:
Case Style no: 123 108
Caliber: 123
Bracelet: Original matching gold-filled bracelet
Other info: Pictured in the 1929 Guild Book. This example is fitted with the "two-tone" (gilt bridges on rhodium plated pillar plate), showing milled spaces on the barrel bridge where the adjustment data had been. This indicates post-1930 production, as the US tariff was raised to $1.00 per adjustment in that year.

1930's | 3 comments

Gruen Airway

Mon, 01 July 2013 03:18

Model name: Airway (Universally called "Airflight", which is incorrect for this model). AKA "Super-G"
Type:
Period/date: 1958-1961
Gender: Men's
Case Maker: Unknown
Case Material: Chromed base metal bezel, Stainless Steel back. (also available in gold-plated top/stainless back, solid stainless steel, and solid 14 karat gold)
Case Serial:
Case Style no: N/A
Caliber: 510 RSS CA
Movement Maker: Gruen
Movement Serial:
Bracelet: 17mm strap

Other info: This model was the earliest to incorporate the clever adaptation of the 510 RSS CA movement to allow the 1-12 and 13-24 numerals to "jump" back and forth at 12 hour intervals. This model would stay in production in various forms until at least 1972.

Trivia: The dial is technically incorrect, as the military does not use "2400" hours for midnight, using "zero" hour instead. Ie, 12:30AM would be "Zero-Thiry Hours" in military parlance.

This example shows the American Airlines logo on the dial, one of several corporate tie-ins used in marketing this model.

1950's and Up | 1 comment

Curvex Adjutant

Mon, 01 July 2013 02:57

Model name: Curvex Adjutant
Period/date: Circa 1941-1946
Gender: Men's
Case Maker: Wadsworth
Case Material: 14 Karat Gold
Case Serial:
Case Style no: 440 499
Caliber: 440
Movement Maker: Gruen
Movement Serial:
Bracelet: 14mm Strap

Other info : The Curvex Adjutant appears in the 1942 countertop catalog, but I've not seen it in print advertising. I have heard anecdotally that this model was also sold as the Curvex Blanchard, but have not seen documented proof.

To my knowledge, this model equals the shortest Curvexes at 34mm.

Available (obviously) in both yellow and pink gold. Yellow fitted with original AGN dial, pink has original hard enamel Roman numeral dial.

1940's | 0 comments

Curvex RistSide Coronet

Thu, 27 June 2013 18:46

Model name: Curvex RistSide Coronet
Period/date: 1938
Gender: Men's
Case Maker: Wadsworth
Case Material: 14 Karat Gold Filled
Case Serial :
Case Style no: 304 330

Caliber: 330
Movement Maker: Gruen
Movement Serial:

Bracelet: 15 mm "driver's" strap

Other info :

1930's | 5 comments

Curvex Crown (440)

Thu, 27 June 2013 18:27

Model name: Curvex Crown
Type:
Period/date: 1940 to 1947
Gender: Men's
Case Maker: Wadsworth
Case Material: 14 Karat Gold (also available in 10 Karat Gold Filled)
Case Serial:
Case Style no: 440 448
Caliber: 440
Movement Maker: Gruen
Movement Serial:
Bracelet: 16mm Strap

Other info: Also known as Sentry, Centennial, Century, Lieutenant and perhaps others. I believe this to be the iconic 440 Curvex, and the one most people are familiar with. Offered in pink gold as well, and with multiple dials.

1940's | 3 comments

Curvex Governor (440)

Thu, 27 June 2013 18:14

Model name: Curvex Governor
Type:
Period/date: circa 1946 to 1948
Gender:
Case Maker: Wadsworth
Case Material: 14 Karat Gold
Case Serial:
Case Style no: 440 544
Caliber: 440
Movement Maker: Gruen
Movement Serial:
Bracelet: 19mm strap
Other info: One of several models using the 544 style number. Also available in pink gold

And in pink...

1940's | 1 comment

Curvex Chancellor (440)

Thu, 27 June 2013 17:58

Model name: Curvex Chancellor
Period/date: circa 1947
Gender: Mens
Case Maker: Armand Lemieux Watch Case Corp, NYC
Case Material: 14 Karat Gold
Case Serial:
Case Style no: 440 568
Caliber: 440
Movement Maker: Gruen
Movement Serial:
Other info: One of the few models made available in all three colors (yellow, white, pink) of 14K.

And in Pink...

I'll add yellow when I get the pictures done...

1940's | 6 comments

Day Night hands

correct hands for Day Night model; Wed, 26 June 2013 14:01

Model name : Day Night
Type : Aviator
Period/date : 1950-60
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Gruen
Case Material : Steel

Caliber : 510
Movement Maker: Gruen

Hi folks

Just bought this Day Night, but suspect that someone has changed the hands for some reason. I've only ever seen them with luminous filled Dauphine style hands. Can anyone tell me if they also issued them with the baton style herein?

Thanks in advance,

Michael

index.php?t=getfile&id=402&private=0

1950's and Up | 13 comments

Quadron 63

Beautiful model with 'crown guard" case!; Mon, 24 June 2013 23:36

Here's one that's going into the vault, as many of you know the Quadrons are one of my favorites! I acquired it in 2010, and am just know getting around to cataloging it. It's nice to get a Gruen once in a while that you can "positively ID" from the factory's 1929-'31 Guild Book! Love the "W" after the "8." First time I've seen a number/letter combination for the case style!

Model name : Quadron 63
Type : Quadron, 15J Guild movement
Period/date : late 1920s
Gender : Men

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : 14kt gold filled
Case Serial : 5,419,980
Case Style no : 157/8W

Caliber : 157
Movement Maker : Marc Favre
Movement Serial: 1,166,816

Bracelet : Leather band

Other info (my opinion only): Positively ID'd on Page 16 (top center) of my Gruen Book, and also page 79 of the Gruen Guild book (picture included below). Nice case design on this, gravitating more toward the "streamlned" designs of the later Quadrons versus the "Art Deco" designs of the earlier ones. The slits carved into the tops of the lugs are a nice touch, as is the "crown guard" design of the case. The domed crystal is no doubt a replacement, and not correct for this model. If anyone can help me obtain the correct glass crystal for this, I'd be much obliged!

Enjoy!

index.php?t=getfile&id=397&private=0 index.php?t=getfile&id=398&private=0 index.php?t=getfile&id=399&private=0 index.php?t=getfile&id=400&private=0 index.php?t=getfile&id=401&private=0

1920's | 10 comments

Ristside Varsity 1938

Mon, 24 June 2013 22:34

Model name : Varsity
Type : Ristside
Period/date : 1938
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Star watch case co
Case Material : 10kgf bezel, guildite back
Case Serial : 665660
Case Style no : 352

Caliber : 401
Movement Maker : ?
Movement Serial: 4-50206

Bracelet : not original, flex usa pat 3587226 (1971)

Other info : You can only wear this watch on the side of your wrist. When you're driving it is easy to see the time. Strap size is 13mm. In general this model shows a lot of wear on the lugs. A patent for Gruen's side wrist watch is: US2187205A

index.php?t=getfile&id=395&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=396&private=0
[Picture caseback inside]
[Picture movement]
[Picture ad] - There is an advertising card (march 1939) which shows this watch

1930's | 6 comments

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