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The caliber 179

Fri, 31 May 2013 13:53

This is the caliber 179, a 15 jewel movement and is 9-3/4 ligne or 22mm in diameter. Although these are commonly marked on the pillar plate with the caliber number, usually in the space between the escape wheel finger and the train bridge, occasionally they are unmarked. The key-less works (aka the setting bits) are diagnostic for this movement. It also appears in Alpina marked watches (the cal 575), and Marc Favre marked watches. The setting works on these are very similar to the cal 157 which is patented by M. Favre in 1925.
index.php?t=getfile&id=222&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=221&private=0

The caliber database | 3 comments

The caliber 157

Fri, 31 May 2013 04:04

This is the caliber 157 and is a 15 jewel movement that is 8-3/4 x 12 ligne or 19.4mm x 27.07mm. This is one of the Quadron movements and is the only one that is 15 jewels. These are clearly marked with a caliber number often on the pillar plate next to the escape wheel.
index.php?t=getfile&id=220&private=0
There are two variation: One is a 'reduced' barrel bridge design and the other is a single train-bridge without the separate 'finger' for the escape wheel. Also, these movement appear with a frequency in Alpina marked watches. These can be marked 157 but also 765. An example here of a reduced barrel bridge.
index.php?t=getfile&id=223&private=0
These will also appear in Gubelin marked watches, and still noted as a 157.
A major difference in the Alpina and the Gruen editions of these movements is that the Gruen use a Breguet overcoiled hairspring where as the Alpina's use a flat hairspring.
patent is HERE

The caliber database | 12 comments

The caliber 421

Fri, 31 May 2013 03:43

The caliber 421 is 15 jewel movement that is 11.5 ligne or 25.6mm diameter. The caliber number is clearly stamped next to the balance wheel on the pillar plate.
index.php?t=getfile&id=219&private=0

The caliber database | 0 comments

The caliber 430

Fri, 31 May 2013 03:35

This is the caliber 430, is 17 jewels and is 8-3/4 x 9-3/4 ligne or 19.4mm x22mm. It is similar to the 435 and is also related to the Curvex 440. This caliber is clearly marked with the number between the barrel bridge and the balance cock.
index.php?t=getfile&id=218&private=0

The caliber database | 0 comments

The caliber 435

Fri, 31 May 2013 03:30

The caliber 435 is 17 jewels and is 8-3/4 x 9-3/4 ligne or 19.4mm x22mm. This movement is similar to the Curvex caliber 440 and there is a fair-degree of interchangeability in the parts. This caliber is clearly marked with the number between the barrel bridge and the balance cock.
index.php?t=getfile&id=217&private=0

The caliber database | 0 comments

The caliber 405

the work horse of the 1940s; Fri, 31 May 2013 03:13

The below is a caliber 405, 17 jewel movement and is marked next to the balance wheel with the caliber number. Size is 10x11 ligne or 22.56mm x 24.81mm.
index.php?t=getfile&id=215&private=0

This one is a later version of the 405. In most catelogs the 405 movements are divided into old model and new model and dealt with a variation of the setting bits and a change in the set stem. The above is an 'OM' 405 and the following is the 'NM' 405.
index.php?t=getfile&id=216&private=0
It should be noted that the calibers 406, 410, 411, 420, 421, 425 and 426 are all based on the 405. Difference is mostly round or tonneau-shaped movement.

The caliber database | 0 comments

Wristlet ???

Tue, 28 May 2013 21:20

Model name : ??? (plate 24E???)
Type : wristlet
Period/date : ??? (1915 - 1925)
Gender : ladies

Case Maker : Gruen (cincinnati)
Case Material : 14 K.G.
Case Serial : 1022596
Case Style no : -

Caliber : 640 (10 1/2 L, 2 adj 15 jewels)
Movement Maker : ??? (Factory R) Surprised
Movement Serial: -

Bracelet : -

Other info :

index.php?t=getfile&id=208&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=209&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=210&private=0

1910's and prior | 14 comments

VT Aqua Queen - Import 259 ladies

Sat, 25 May 2013 23:08

Model name : VT Aqua Queen / Import 259
Type : Veri Thin
Period/date : 1950-1952
Gender : Ladies

Case Maker : ? Swiss
Case Material : Guildite
Case Serial : 54901D
Case Style no : -

Caliber : 210 SS
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial: 1I 88456

Bracelet : Leather calfskin, not original

Other info : Import. Anti-magnetic, water resistant. 22 mm diameter. Original radium dial.

index.php?t=getfile&id=197&private=0index.php?t=getfile&id=198&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=199&private=0index.php?t=getfile&id=200&private=0


1950's and Up | 20 comments

Import 103

Tue, 21 May 2013 15:42

Model Name: Import 103
Type: Quadron
Period/Date: Circa 1929
Gender: Gents

Case Maker: Gruen-Weber Case Co.
Case Material: 14k Green and White Gold
Case Serial: 200332
Case Style no: N/A

Caliber: 119
Movement Maker: Gruen (Precision Workshop, Biel)
Movement Serial: 659382

Bracelet : Leather Strap

Other Info: Anybody who has a version of the Master Book has seen the utterly psychotic assortment of late 1920's and early 1930's import models. Over the years I've been lucky enough to snag quit a few of them. I've had several tanks, including hinged lugs, tri-tone hooded lugs, and several two-tone models, most of them a variation of the same crown guard style. But until recently I has never seen any of the barrel shaped imports. A couple of years ago I finally snagged one. It's the Import 103 with a Gruen-Weber case. Pictures don't really do it justice. As with many of these import models, the movement is "engraved in the old guild manner" which is commonly misidentified as an Anniversary movement. And the case is two tone, mainly green gold with alternating white steps on the lugs. Very subtle and very attractive. So without further ado, here it is.
http://mccarthyorth.smugmug.com/Watches/Gruen-Import-103/i-HJw97b6/1/XL/CIMG3761-XL.jpg
http://mccarthyorth.smugmug.com/Watches/Gruen-Import-103/i-L74kS3k/1/XL/CIMG3775-XL.jpg
http://mccarthyorth.smugmug.com/Watches/Gruen-Import-103/i-fKzkxSM/1/XL/CIMG3764-XL.jpg
http://mccarthyorth.smugmug.com/Watches/Gruen-Import-103/i-792cRQV/1/XL/CIMG3771-XL.jpg
http://mccarthyorth.smugmug.com/Watches/Gruen-Import-103/i-83rVzkW/1/XL/CIMG3789-XL.jpg
http://mccarthyorth.smugmug.com/Watches/Gruen-Import-103/i-Pwv3GKk/1/XL/CIMG3761-XL.jpg

1930's | 7 comments

Pan-American Captain

Mon, 20 May 2013 22:36

Model name : Captain
Type : Veri-Thin Pan-American
Period/date : 1945-1946
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : 14k pink
Case Serial : G547647
Case Style no : 420-534

Caliber : 420SS
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial: A159914

Bracelet : Leather

Other info :
Also known as "strap 484" in Bruce Shawkey's book, page 137
Ad showing Captain model in Reference section, "1940's Gruen ads"

index.php?t=getfile&id=180&private=0
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index.php?t=getfile&id=182&private=0

1940's | 1 comment

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