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Gübelin/Gruen

Sat, 01 June 2013 02:42

Hi Guys,

At Jack W's suggestion, I am posting a 1920s Gübelin that has a nicely finished movement which some Gruen fans will identify as a cal. 157. It also features a Huguenin Freres (HF) silver case, and what I believe to be a very nice original steel bracelet.

I am much more knowledgable about watches from the '50s and '60s, as my collection is focussed on that period, but as I am a fan of Gübelin's better watches (and they made plenty over the years), I was unable to resist this early beauty.

Feel free to discuss the watch and enlighten me further on the base movement.

Cheers,

Tony C.

(P.S. the photos are apparently restricted to quite a small size; might the owner of the site consider relaxing the unusually strict parameters?)

http://mtanga.com/GubSilv2.jpg

http://mtanga.com/GubSilv3.jpg

http://mtanga.com/GubSilv4.jpg

http://mtanga.com/GubSilv6.jpg

Watches from the Guild | 11 comments

The caliber 411

Fri, 31 May 2013 18:40

This is the caliber 411, a 15 jewel movement that is 10.5 ligne or 23.7mm in diameter. Almost all parts will interchange with others in the 405-series. The only difference between the 411 and the 421 is the size; other wise it is fully interchangeable. These movements are always marked with the caliber number in the space next to the balance wheel and the pivot jewel for the escape wheel.
index.php?t=getfile&id=20&private=0

The caliber database | 8 comments

The caliber 420ss

caliber with indirect sweeps-seconds; Fri, 31 May 2013 15:34

This is the caliber 420ss, a 17 jewel movement and is 11.5 ligne or 25.6 mm in diameter. This is a movement with an indirect sweeps seconds feature. Almost all parts will interchange with a 405 and the sweeps parts will interchange with the 405ss. The only difference between the 420ss and the 410ss is the size; other wise it is fully interchangeable. These movements are always marked with the caliber number in the space next to the balance wheel and the cap-jewel for the escape wheel.
index.php?t=getfile&id=224&private=0

The caliber database | 0 comments

The caliber 179

Fri, 31 May 2013 13:53

This is the caliber 179, a 15 jewel movement and is 9-3/4 ligne or 22mm in diameter. Although these are commonly marked on the pillar plate with the caliber number, usually in the space between the escape wheel finger and the train bridge, occasionally they are unmarked. The key-less works (aka the setting bits) are diagnostic for this movement. It also appears in Alpina marked watches (the cal 575), and Marc Favre marked watches. The setting works on these are very similar to the cal 157 which is patented by M. Favre in 1925.
index.php?t=getfile&id=222&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=221&private=0

The caliber database | 3 comments

The caliber 157

Fri, 31 May 2013 04:04

This is the caliber 157 and is a 15 jewel movement that is 8-3/4 x 12 ligne or 19.4mm x 27.07mm. This is one of the Quadron movements and is the only one that is 15 jewels. These are clearly marked with a caliber number often on the pillar plate next to the escape wheel.
index.php?t=getfile&id=220&private=0
There are two variation: One is a 'reduced' barrel bridge design and the other is a single train-bridge without the separate 'finger' for the escape wheel. Also, these movement appear with a frequency in Alpina marked watches. These can be marked 157 but also 765. An example here of a reduced barrel bridge.
index.php?t=getfile&id=223&private=0
These will also appear in Gubelin marked watches, and still noted as a 157.
A major difference in the Alpina and the Gruen editions of these movements is that the Gruen use a Breguet overcoiled hairspring where as the Alpina's use a flat hairspring.
patent is HERE

The caliber database | 12 comments

The caliber 421

Fri, 31 May 2013 03:43

The caliber 421 is 15 jewel movement that is 11.5 ligne or 25.6mm diameter. The caliber number is clearly stamped next to the balance wheel on the pillar plate.
index.php?t=getfile&id=219&private=0

The caliber database | 0 comments

The caliber 430

Fri, 31 May 2013 03:35

This is the caliber 430, is 17 jewels and is 8-3/4 x 9-3/4 ligne or 19.4mm x22mm. It is similar to the 435 and is also related to the Curvex 440. This caliber is clearly marked with the number between the barrel bridge and the balance cock.
index.php?t=getfile&id=218&private=0

The caliber database | 0 comments

The caliber 435

Fri, 31 May 2013 03:30

The caliber 435 is 17 jewels and is 8-3/4 x 9-3/4 ligne or 19.4mm x22mm. This movement is similar to the Curvex caliber 440 and there is a fair-degree of interchangeability in the parts. This caliber is clearly marked with the number between the barrel bridge and the balance cock.
index.php?t=getfile&id=217&private=0

The caliber database | 0 comments

The caliber 405

the work horse of the 1940s; Fri, 31 May 2013 03:13

The below is a caliber 405, 17 jewel movement and is marked next to the balance wheel with the caliber number. Size is 10x11 ligne or 22.56mm x 24.81mm.
index.php?t=getfile&id=215&private=0

This one is a later version of the 405. In most catelogs the 405 movements are divided into old model and new model and dealt with a variation of the setting bits and a change in the set stem. The above is an 'OM' 405 and the following is the 'NM' 405.
index.php?t=getfile&id=216&private=0
It should be noted that the calibers 406, 410, 411, 420, 421, 425 and 426 are all based on the 405. Difference is mostly round or tonneau-shaped movement.

The caliber database | 0 comments

Wristlet ???

Tue, 28 May 2013 21:20

Model name : ??? (plate 24E???)
Type : wristlet
Period/date : ??? (1915 - 1925)
Gender : ladies

Case Maker : Gruen (cincinnati)
Case Material : 14 K.G.
Case Serial : 1022596
Case Style no : -

Caliber : 640 (10 1/2 L, 2 adj 15 jewels)
Movement Maker : ??? (Factory R) Surprised
Movement Serial: -

Bracelet : -

Other info :

index.php?t=getfile&id=208&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=209&private=0
index.php?t=getfile&id=210&private=0

1910's and prior | 14 comments

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