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cartouche 37

Wed, 03 November 2021 22:34

Model name: car. 37
Type: cartouche
Period/date: end of 1923
Gender: female

Case Maker: wadsworth
Case Material: 14k gold reinforced with metal
Case Serial: 761996
Case Style no: 59

Caliber: 833 (15 jewels, 4 adjts)
Movement Maker: aegler
Movement Serial: none

Bracelet: black ribbon with B&N 1-10 k pat 830021? Clasp

Other: nice scratched numbers inside bezel


Edit: named! (Or should say, numbered)

1920's | 12 comments

Two-Diamond Brookline - possible Baguette 519

Sat, 30 October 2021 15:09

Thanks to Barney for help possibly ID'ing this one!

Model name: Unknown, a diamond variant of Baguette 75 (Brookline)
Type: Baguette
Period/date: circa 1933-1934
Gender: Ladies

Case Maker: Gruen
Case Material: --k Gold Filled (no numbers)
Case Serial: 2240302
Case Style no: 134

Caliber: 327
Movement Maker: ?
Movement Serial: 255895

Bracelet: Sturdy Allegheny, marked "patent pending" (possible reference to US2082621, filed 6/1933)


Other info: Baguette 75 shows the same stair-step case decoration, caliber 327, "filled w-y" implying two-tone. Baguette 519 image is missing from book. Its description matches Bag 75, and the 500s models do appear to be slightly dressed-up diamond gold filled variants of others. It is possible this was a Bag 75 that was later "pimped out." IMO, the cleanness of the diamond mounts & borders mean this was made like this at the start. But the fact it isn't two-tone may negate that.

Dial is a match to Bag 72--also a 327 with same style #--so I think it is original/interchangeable.

1930's | 8 comments

1923 14k Green Gold Men's Strap Watch

Fri, 01 October 2021 21:08

Model name: Unknown
Type: Strap Watch
Period/date: 1923
Gender: Men's

Case Maker: Unknown Swiss
Case Material: 14k Green Gold
Case Serial: 7979*
Case Style no: N/A

Caliber: 997
Movement Maker: Unknown
Movement Serial: 94508

Bracelet: Leather Strap

Other Information: As far as I can tell from reviewing the caliber 98 thread, we still do not know who manufactured the 98/99/997 movements. This watch has a June of 1926 inscription, but Case helped me pin down a likely date of 1923. Which would also explain why it doesn't appear in the Master Book. It still has its original buckle, marked "Gruen 14k-G B&N Pat. Pending". The case is marked "14C" rather than "14K". I've seen this on other cases, but have yet to identify any rhyme or reason. I would assume it's just nomenclature unique to certain casemakers. I also don't have any leads on who the casemaker might be. Weber cases can usually (but not always) be spotted by their typical X00XXX six-digit numbers. There was another Swiss casemaker working for Gruen with five-digit serial numbers that is also unidentified.
*While at a glance, it looks somewhat like 7379, I'm fairly confident that the second digit is a misstruck 9.


The only known advertisement featuring this model:
This is a 1925 catalog from jeweler S. Kind & Sons of Philadelphia (thanks for Jenneke and Barney for that information). While the catalog references a 15-jewel movement and has a luminous dial, this watch is from the era in which Gruen models were often shown this way, with an illustration of the case style, but then a number of options listed.

And here is a photograph of its original owner, Erret Reed Cooper:
Mr. Cooper was an attorney in LaPorte, Indiana. His great great uncle was none other than James Fennimore Cooper. He was born in 1903, so would have been 23 at the time this watch was given to him. But he didn't receive his Bachelor of Laws degree until 1929. He also held an "honorary degree of Bachelor of Oratory was conferred on him by the British Royal Academy at Christ College, Oxford, England." The article I found doesn't mention when this was received, but maybe a candidate as the occasion for which this watch was gifted.

1920's | 0 comments

Cartouche 260 - diamonds with enamel

Wed, 15 September 2021 18:17

Model name: cartouche 260
Type: cartouche
Period/date: 1927/1928
Gender: ladies

Case Maker: gruen
Case Material: 14k white gold
Case Serial: 1146665
Case Style no: 66

Caliber: 107 (precision 17 jewels)
Movement Maker: gruen
Movement Serial: 618155

Bracelet: tbd

Other info: 6 diamonds and inlaid black enamel


1920's | 15 comments

Gruen Military Wrist Watch

Plate 23B Out o' Doors ; Wed, 18 August 2021 17:02

Here is Plate 23B Out o' Doors if you call it. I got this watch from Thomas (Timeticker) many years back, don't see him around today. The watch has a 870 15J Premo Rebberg movement. The watch just came back from a good COA, new mainspring and hands re-lumed. The hairspring was all "jacked up" and had to be reshaped. The upper cap jewel is cracked but keeps oil, was decided not to replace and risk getting it back to running OK level that it's in now.

Watch Tables | 9 comments

Gruen Lady Pocket / Pendant watch by Georgine Pau

Thu, 01 July 2021 14:11

Here's one for the ladies!

Model name: unknown
Type: pocket/pendant
Period/date: 1916-1921
Gender: Lady

Case Maker: Madame Georgine Pau, Geneve
Case Material: 935 “extra” Sterling
Case Serial: 40
Case Style no: n/a

Caliber: 611 or 610, with sub-seconds
Movement Maker: Watch Specialties
Movement Serial: 29347 (or 29 347)

Bracelet: n/a

Other info: The watch measures about 1 1/8" across. Case signed "Watch Specialties Co.", matching movement. Dial back stamped "46." It appears to have had something around the outside (possibly a decorative wrap of gold?) which was held with two screws through the case. It has a hinged top & a metal insert to hold the movement that is stamped with the case number.


1910's and prior | 4 comments

Earliest Verithin

The one that started it all!; Wed, 09 June 2021 00:05

I feel like showing off one of Gruen's earliest Verithins. Not *the* earliest - but certainly the earliest I have ever seen, or am likely to hold.

It is a thing of beauty.


That dial sure has aged well - most of the time they're in terrible shape.



Quite a low case serial!


Note the 1DG4 monogram for 14k gold. The other day, I was looking over early Gruen trademarks, and I realized why it is this way. The old Queen City Watch Case Co. used a very similar 1QC4 mark with interlocking letters (it looks much prettier too). I guess it represents an attempt at continuity of trademark (though I can't think it is a very good one).

I have seen lower case serials on several Gruen cases housing the earliest cal. 35 movements (SN 125k). From this I conclude that early serial numbers were assigned in blocks.


And lastly, the movement. A fine LV1, running and keeping excellent time. This one is within a thousand of the lowest SN I've ever seen (120,527, but that one was an orphan) and one of only three movements that I've ever seen with a serial lower than 122k. I would love to see more, if you have them!

Watch Tables | 5 comments

Plate 26E

Thu, 13 May 2021 21:00

Model name: plate 26-E - Tonneau style
Type: ribbon wristwatch
Period/date: 1918 - ?
Gender: female

Case Maker: unknown
Case Material: 14kt green gold
Case Serial: 58
Case Style no: not on case, but in gruen guild book description - OS2

Caliber: 101 (15 jewels, 4 adjts)
Movement Maker:
Movement Serial: -

Bracelet: GF Bruner-Ritter with Bretton’s famous supermatic safety catch (pat pending 1947). To open, simply slide it in the direction of the wybert shape and lift up.

Other: the case serial is inside the case and on the back of the dial. “Exploded” roman dial. Platinized or silver.



1910's and prior | 3 comments

Veri-Thin Scientist

When is an Import not an import?; Wed, 05 May 2021 13:57

Model name: Veri-Thin Scientist
Type: variant of Import # 252 (or 245 or 249, per below)
Period/date: 1941-1943
Gender: Men’s

Case Maker: Pioneer
Case Material: 10k Pink GF / Guildite back -- bezel appears to be sterling base, from the discoloration
Case Serial: 6029908
Case Style no: 411SS-494

Caliber: 410SS Precision (17j)
Movement Maker: Gruen Watch Co
Movement Serial: 714682

Bracelet: 12k pink gold filled "grains of rice" link bracelet

Other info: Stamped with US patent # 2,229,979, covering the case design by Pioneer Watch Case Company.


1940's | 11 comments

Cartouche 342 (modified)

Thu, 22 April 2021 18:06

Model named: Frank N. Stein
Type: Cartouche
Period/date: case ca 1928
Gender: Female (but big enough to be a man's)

Case Maker: Wadsworth / Gruen
Case Material: 14k reinforced gold filled
Case Serial: 5305616
Case Style no: 153 8

Caliber: 8357B (seventeen jewels)
Movement Maker: Aegler S.A. (Factory A)
Movement Serial: 1920616

Bracelet: aftermarket leather strap

Other info: Movement stamped "GXC" --> imported 1936 or after. I bought this for the 8357 movement. I hesitated to post it, as it appears to be a frankenwatch, but the case style is not present on the forum yet. Cartouche 342 is very similar to 345, but 345 has engraved sides in addition to a bracelet.

I am debating as to keeping it as a wearer. The size is actually quite nice on my wrist, and I like the look with the dial. I note there are a couple of Strap models that used caliber 835, so I figure Fred would probably be okay with it.


1920's | 6 comments

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