Vintage Gruen
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Gruen Exclusive Creation Box

Fri, 11 September 2020 06:01

Description; Red padded leather, red velvet insert.


Period : 1950 to 1953
Watch type : Men's Royalty Series
Size : TBD
Inventor : Unknown
Patents : Unknown

Box maker : Unknown.

Note similar Gruen font and header font in this ad from November 1947.

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1950s | 3 comments

Cal 328 - 4.5L 17J Baguette (327=15J, 329=7J)

Aegler-Rolex SA; Sat, 05 September 2020 19:01

Cal 328 and it’s more common sisters 327 & 329 share many features and parts with the 520 original lady Curvex caliber. 328 has unique parts, including conical escape pivots.

This example ca1937, stamped “328”. From the works & “last 4” digit dial side sn marking, the 328 was probably built by Aegler (formerly Factory A). It seems to be the next baguette evolution from the 879. I note only 1 master book model with the 328, and it used the 111 style number originally held by the 879. I do not yet have a 327 or 329 to compare markings.

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The caliber database | 0 comments

Strap 17

826ss green gold; Fri, 04 September 2020 00:02

Model name : Strap 17
Type : wristwatch
Period/date : 1922??
Gender : Men's

Case Maker : Gruen
Case Material : green gold
Case Serial : 1067788
Case Style no : none

Caliber : 826ss [case correctly marked 827]
Movement Maker : Gruen Guild
Movement Serial: none

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1920's | 12 comments

High oblique Service box brown

Tue, 01 September 2020 07:56

Description
Fake leather paper and wood box. Greek golden rim. Sloping watch holder (not original).gruen service crest inside.

Period : 1925-1930
Watch type : unknown (wristlet?)
Size : 11cm wide, 4 cm high, 6.2 cm deep.
Inventor : unknown
Patents : pat. Mar. 10. 1925 (USD66772 Harold R Haerr) & pat. Pending

Box maker : unknown

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1920s | 15 comments

Cal 840 (841) - 5.5’” 18J Extra Precision

Favre ; Mon, 31 August 2020 13:24

Classified “Extra Precision” in my 1926 parts catalogue, although not stamped with the diamond. Have yet to encounter the top-winding 841, which I presume is in necklace models. Showing a bridge side pic from my original copy of 26 parts catalogue.

Dims: 5.5 x 10 ligne
Dial mounts: 2 dial side screws
Front plate marks: sn & “A 32”
Dial maker: unsigned (illegible stamp, possible import or American Art Enamelers)
Dial markings: no “Switzerland”; has 2 serial #s etched in back: “179928” (matches movement) & “1023408”

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The caliber database | 18 comments

Cartouche 23

Mon, 31 August 2020 01:24

Model name : Cartouche 23, Sapphire variant
Type : Cartouche
Period/date : 1924-26
Gender : Female

Case Maker : GRUEN Cincinnati
Case Material : 14k white gold, Sapphires
Case Serial :1084398
Case Style no : 53

Caliber : Cal 833 (Rolex 250)
Movement Maker : Aegler
Movement Serial:1380797

Bracelet : Speidel. Not original.

Other info :.

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1920's | 8 comments

Outing/Military wrist watch

Sun, 30 August 2020 22:24

Model name : "Outing wrist watch" "the Gruen military watch"
Type : Outdoor/military
Period/date :1915-
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Gruen Watch Co.
Case Material : .935 silver
Case Serial :n/a
Case Style no :n/a

Caliber : Calibre 47. Seventeen (17) Jewels. Adjusted. 5 positions.
Movement Maker : Gruen Watch Co.
Movement Serial:

Bracelet :

Other info :. Suisse. Rampant Bear.

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1910's and prior | 2 comments

Cal 850/852/854 (15/17/19J) - 17’” (10S) OF

Guild Factory V - Marc Favre ebauche / Lavina finished; Fri, 28 August 2020 04:47

Here is the only observed “Factory V”-stamped caliber family. The forum previously confirmed “Factory V” as Lavina, who also supplied the 740/750 716, & 720 pocket caliber families, among other cals.

Production Dates: ca1919-22 (all “Guild” & pre-1922 tariff stamps for adjustments)

Maker/Finisher: The curious thing is, the 850s are not in-house Lavina movements. They have no Lavina serial numbers on the dial side—just a letter + 2-3 digit number code. Yep, these were supplied by Marc Favre (like the early V7s from this time) & finished by Lavina. The finger bridges may be unique to Lavina.

Identification: All variants are stamped “850” in tiny font between bridges, but this is hard to see in seller pics. One of Mike’s books shows a “Factory V”-stamped movement, mislabeling it as a cal 740. It is actually an 850. They're the same size & have similar bridges, but the click location is one easy differentiator without removing the dial: the 850 family clicks are on the opposite side of the wheel vs 740/750 family.

Variants: (all stamped “850”)

15J, 3ADJ: 850 —> “Factory V” stamp
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17J, 3-5ADJ: 852
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19J, 4-5ADJ: 854
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The caliber database | 4 comments

Early Wristlet

Thu, 27 August 2020 06:15

Model name :Unknown model
Type : Wristlet.
Period/date :. 1913-
Gender : Female.

Case Maker : Unknown maker; JP
Case Material : .935 "Sterling Silver"
Case Serial :
Case Style no :n/a

Caliber : Cal 94. Subseconds variant is Calibre 95. Fifteen (15) Jewels.
Movement Maker : Gruen Guarantee
Movement Serial: n/a

Bracelet : n/a

Other info : Case marked: JP. Sterling silver. .935. Rampant Bear. United. W. Co.
Suisse. Roman numeral I VI on back bezel.

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1910's and prior | 31 comments

Cal 146/147/148/149 (not 142/143) - 9 3/4’” - 15J/17J

Gruen W. Co - Factory T; Thu, 27 August 2020 03:16

Here’s one where setting bits are so similar that later Gruen documents seem to have flipped them, similar to the cals 849 & 861.

The layout, markings, and dial side serial number placement/format are identical to the 10.5L Guild movement stamped “Factory T.” This one was always marked “Gruen W. Co” during the same time, judging by serial numbers.

Example 1: 15J (146/147?)
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Example 2: 15J (146/147?)
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Example 3: 17J (148/149?)
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The caliber database | 1 comment

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