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Cartouche 23

Mon, 31 August 2020 01:24

Model name : Cartouche 23, Sapphire variant
Type : Cartouche
Period/date : 1924-26
Gender : Female

Case Maker : GRUEN Cincinnati
Case Material : 14k white gold, Sapphires
Case Serial :1084398
Case Style no : 53

Caliber : Cal 833 (Rolex 250)
Movement Maker : Aegler
Movement Serial:1380797

Bracelet : Speidel. Not original.

Other info :.









1920's | 8 comments

Outing/Military wrist watch

Sun, 30 August 2020 22:24

Model name : "Outing wrist watch" "the Gruen military watch"
Type : Outdoor/military
Period/date :1915-
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Gruen Watch Co.
Case Material : .935 silver
Case Serial :n/a
Case Style no :n/a

Caliber : Calibre 47. Seventeen (17) Jewels. Adjusted. 5 positions.
Movement Maker : Gruen Watch Co.
Movement Serial:

Bracelet :

Other info :. Suisse. Rampant Bear.









1910's and prior | 2 comments

Cal 850/852/854 (15/17/19J) - 17’” (10S) OF

Guild Factory V - Marc Favre ebauche / Lavina finished; Fri, 28 August 2020 04:47

Here is the only observed “Factory V”-stamped caliber family. The forum previously confirmed “Factory V” as Lavina, who also supplied the 740/750 716, & 720 pocket caliber families, among other cals.

Production Dates: ca1919-22 (all “Guild” & pre-1922 tariff stamps for adjustments)

Maker/Finisher: The curious thing is, the 850s are not in-house Lavina movements. They have no Lavina serial numbers on the dial side—just a letter + 2-3 digit number code. Yep, these were supplied by Marc Favre (like the early V7s from this time) & finished by Lavina. The finger bridges may be unique to Lavina.

Identification: All variants are stamped “850” in tiny font between bridges, but this is hard to see in seller pics. One of Mike’s books shows a “Factory V”-stamped movement, mislabeling it as a cal 740. It is actually an 850. They're the same size & have similar bridges, but the click location is one easy differentiator without removing the dial: the 850 family clicks are on the opposite side of the wheel vs 740/750 family.

Variants: (all stamped “850”)

15J, 3ADJ: 850 —> “Factory V” stamp

17J, 3-5ADJ: 852

19J, 4-5ADJ: 854

The caliber database | 4 comments

Early Wristlet

Thu, 27 August 2020 06:15

Model name :Unknown model
Type : Wristlet.
Period/date :. 1913-
Gender : Female.

Case Maker : Unknown maker; JP
Case Material : .935 "Sterling Silver"
Case Serial :
Case Style no :n/a

Caliber : Cal 94. Subseconds variant is Calibre 95. Fifteen (15) Jewels.
Movement Maker : Gruen Guarantee
Movement Serial: n/a

Bracelet : n/a

Other info : Case marked: JP. Sterling silver. .935. Rampant Bear. United. W. Co.
Suisse. Roman numeral I VI on back bezel.








1910's and prior | 32 comments

Cal 146/147/148/149 (not 142/143) - 9 3/4’” - 15J/17J

Gruen W. Co - Factory T; Thu, 27 August 2020 03:16

Here’s one where setting bits are so similar that later Gruen documents seem to have flipped them, similar to the cals 849 & 861.

The layout, markings, and dial side serial number placement/format are identical to the 10.5L Guild movement stamped “Factory T.” This one was always marked “Gruen W. Co” during the same time, judging by serial numbers.

Example 1: 15J (146/147?)

Example 2: 15J (146/147?)

Example 3: 17J (148/149?)

The caliber database | 1 comment

Convertible Wristlet

Mon, 24 August 2020 22:27

Model name : Unknown model
Type : Convertible wrislet
Period/date : 1914-
Gender: Female

Case Maker : GRUEN National Watch Case Co.
Case Material : 14k
Case Serial : 200332
Case Style no : n/a

Caliber : Calibre 94. Fifteen (15) Jewels.
Movement Maker : Gruen Guarantee.
Movement Serial:n/a

Bracelet : Foster U.S.A. Not original.

Other info : Dust cover marked 1DG4.






1910's and prior | 4 comments

Blue observatory

Mon, 24 August 2020 20:41

Blue box in the shape of an observatory. With text Gruen the precision factory, measurement marking and a gruen crest. Underneath Gruen Time Hill, cincinnati. Made in USA. Blue velvet insert with watch holder.

The design was inspired by the old observatory shown in the 1929 guild book (probably neuchatel). The exact length of a second was determined by the motion of the earth around the sun. The precise optics in observatories allowed a precision measurement for time.

Period : 1948 -1950
Watch type : veri-thin
Size : tbd
Inventor : unknown
Patents : unknown (patents pending)

Box maker : B. C. N. Design Products, Inc. of Middle Village, NY (doing business also under the name “Braun-Crystal Mfg. Co)


1940s | 7 comments

The caliber 35

Mon, 17 August 2020 00:02

Type : pocket watch
Period/date : 1900-1920
Gender : men's

Caliber : 35
Movement Maker : Gruen
Size: 12 size with spacer ring, 17''' without

17 jewel variant
21 jewel variant

While the 17 jewel variant lacks the top-end chronometer balance and the 21 jewel has it, there exist 17 jewel variants with the top-end balance and 21 jewel variants without.

Whether there are different caliber numbers for the different jewel counts and configurations is for someone else to research. I call both of these "caliber 35" because that's what I was told they were, years ago. I have no documentation.

The caliber database | 3 comments

Possible Caliber 60 (21J sister to Cal 35) - Madretsch - 17’” Open Face

Sun, 09 August 2020 04:05

Asking for help on this one. I can find no match in my sources.

Caliber: ??
Type: Pocket
Layout: open face
Setting: negative/American
Size: measures just over 38mm (17 ligne / 10 Size)
Signature: G. W. Co.
Maker: unknown

Jewels: 21 (#s only)
Adj: “All Positions”
Movement number: 457174 (on bridge; matching dial side sn)
Example date: late 1913-beginning 1914 production
Dial: 2-piece Ceramic, signed “Gruen”
Dial maker: unmarked
Other marks: “Safety Pinion” (center jewel), “Adjusted” (balance cock)
“Madretsch” (main plate by escape)
*not marked Precision*


The caliber database | 18 comments

Baguette ???

Sat, 08 August 2020 23:51

Model name :
Type : Baguette
Period/date : Early 1930's.
Gender : Ladies.

Case Maker : GRUEN 5th AVE. (likely K&O)
Case Material :14k white gold, 8 diamonds.
Case Serial : 53476
Case Style no :

Caliber : 161
Movement Maker : Gruen Guild
Movement Serial: 23939.

Bracelet :14k white gold, silk cord.

Other info : Not in the Book and no known ads of this model, yet.






1930's | 5 comments

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