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Part Box

Part a larger set of part boxes from the 1920's; Mon, 03 August 2020 23:11

Fake wood box with gold inscription. Has a nice slide out locking feature, why would they not use this over the dreaded hinge or snap they use today? Liz or someone who has the full set please post, the box belongs to a very nice set of boxes. I only have bits and pieces of the full set.

Period : 1920
Box maker : Unknown

Outer Box

Inner Box -Look at those baby blues!

1920s | 10 comments

Strap 295

Thu, 30 July 2020 18:01

Model name : Unknown
Type : Strap
Period/date : 1930s
Gender : Men's

Case Maker : Star
Case Material : Gold filled bezel, Guildite base metal back
Case Serial : 1569554
Case Style no : 208

Caliber : 700
Movement Maker : Unknown
Movement Serial: N/A

Bracelet : Likely leather cord

If I can ever find a leather cord band with a sufficiently masculine buckle and length, I would wear this one. There is no serial number on the movement, unless it's under the dial.

1930's | 6 comments

Veri-Thin Realm (Import 257, caliber 410 variant)

Mon, 27 July 2020 01:24

Here’s one that was out of my usual “realm” Laughing I previously owned it, now with another collector. It was almost impossible to really capture the pink gold luster—had the best luck in open afternoon sunlight.

Model name : Veri-Thin Realm (Import 257, 410 variant)
Type : Import
Period/date : ca1944-45 (?)
Gender : Men’s

Case Maker : Gabus Frères / Oracier SA, Le Locle, Switzerland (“141”)
Case Material : 14k Pink Gold
Case Serial : 110242
Case Style no : none stamped

Caliber : 410
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial: 914867

Bracelet : leather strap

Other info : Also available in caliber 420. Full numeral dial on this one (not shown in Master Book). Gold hallmark near crown.


1940's | 2 comments

Caliber 45 (17J) - Madretsch Precision - 13’” Hunter Configuration

Tue, 14 July 2020 16:45

Identified via setting bits. Negative setting mechanism. Hunter configuration. Pre-1909 markings (“Adjusted” only). Possibly ca 1907-1908.

Two distinct serial numbers:
Bridges: 137,967
Front Plate: 12,967

Maker/source: unknown
Signed: DG&S Gruen on movement; Gruen Precision on dial


The caliber database | 22 comments

"Trooper" 440 Curvex style 450 family

Thu, 09 July 2020 19:40

Model name : Trooper
Type : Curvex
Period/date : 1940s to post-war
Gender : men's

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : either 14k gold, 10k gold, or 10k gold over sterling silver (all shown below)
Case Serial :
Case Style no : 450

Caliber : 440
Movement Maker : Gruen Precision factory
Movement Serial:





1940's | 11 comments

18J Extra Precision Oval (Unknown)

measures 18.6mm x 12.65mm or roughly 8.25L x 5.5L; Mon, 06 July 2020 00:57

Could this be Favre’s no. 15? Doesn’t seem to appear in the 1926 catalog.


The caliber database | 13 comments

Caliber 719 (15J) - 6.5L x 11L Oval (ETA 425)

Possibly Alpina; Thu, 02 July 2020 14:04

Another short-lived caliber from the early 1930s. Would it be Alpina? Just a guess based on the finishing, the “Gruen” only branding (no Guild or Watch Co), and the ETA ebauche. References point to ETA 425 as the compatible caliber (can’t verify beyond that too being available as 6.5L, also apparently as a 4.5L)

Seems have debuted for Gruen in 1930-1931. It was used in a limited number of models, have noted only style #s 69, 109, 123.

May have been discontinued within 1 year. Cartouches 504 & 505 are both style # 719/109, both listed in Master Book as caliber 719. But my only sightings all have 835Bs—backs still stamped 719/109 but with the correct movement slot for 835B. They have Gruen house case numbers close to the Master Book model cases (2136xxx vs 2131xxx). My highest actual 719 was case # 2126xxx. Suggestive of a hard conversion/disco.


The caliber database | 6 comments

Calibers 881 (7J) & 8357B (17J) - Guild 6.75L Rounded Cartouche (sisters to 15J 835B)

Aegler - Factory A; Wed, 01 July 2020 21:15

Here’s a caliber that came and went in a hurry: seemingly added & also discontinued in early to mid-30s.

This one bears only Gruen Guild marks (no A) and no full Aegler sn on bridges. Conoruma stamps. Presuming it is transitional, ca1933-35.

It is the 7J sister to the 835B (15J) and 8357B (17J) with same footprint. Compatible in size/shape to the 165, as well as its 163 & 153 round-edge variant predecessors. The 881SS was a sweep second variant.

Hope to add in other variants below.


The caliber database | 3 comments

Caliber 847 “Extra Precision” - 4.5L

Aegler ; Wed, 01 July 2020 06:30

18 Jewels
All Adjustments

This is the first caliber shown in the 1926 Standardized Parts Manual. Barney thought this would be an Aegler caliber, and based on the 4-digit front plate number I think that is true. I have not seen info on any equivalent Aegler caliber from Rolex or another brand.

It is listed as 4.5L. Measures 10.73x17.71mm. I’m guessing this one is ca1923-24.

I had 2 Gruen Factory parts envelopes for this one. They have “4.5L very high grade” written on the front. Thankfully, one of them had an hour wheel, so I’ve placed it on the movement to show. A few more parts before it’s running.


The caliber database | 0 comments

Caliber 879 — Guild A

Aegler 17J 4.5L baguette (Rolex 170); Sat, 27 June 2020 04:25

Switching gears from Favre at long last. This one seems to have come into the arsenal ca1930, building “new for 1931” models. The lowest sn I’ve seen is Dr. Ranfft’s example (1.939mm). Edit: I’ve now seen 879 with sn 1920828.

The below is about 17,000 Aegler numbers later than his, but now has a different patent stamp and a Conoruma hairspring. Edit: corrected my bad math, and note below is a movement that narrows the gap to within 5,400.

This one has a Stern 0.935 Sterling dial.

Not sure what “Size: M” is or what was stricken from the plate above it.


The caliber database | 6 comments

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