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All of Gruen's standard-production shape pocket watches

Mon, 18 January 2021 17:40

For some time, I have been working on collecting a representative sample of all the shapes of case that Gruen used over the years. There are quite a few. And there would be even more if I included some of the really rare early Swiss ones (spoiler: I don't).

This thread is intended to show each of the regular-production shapes that Gruen made. I exclude all Swiss-made cases to focus only on American cases.

While a number of these shapes were used on both VeriThin and SemiThin production, I will focus on the VeriThins here. At least at first. So, let's get down to business!


The first shape I will present is the Standard Round. Hey, it's a shape too! I present a very early V4 in a case typical of early V-series production. It carries an enamel dial with the old-style logo. Fairly sure that enamel dials are thicker than the later metal ones...


With a serial number of 451089, it is definitely within the first 500 V4 "standard" movements made (probably within the first 100) and dates to c. 1912. All features of later production are here, unlike in the prototypes that came earlier.


The Wadsworth case is incredibly thin, but somehow still fits a dust cover in. The case serial number is extremely low - 311018. The first Wadsworth-Gruen contract numbers appear to start at 300k. (These cases were also used on the LV-series, which accounts for most cases from 300-310k or so.)


As befits a new prestige model, the case has fantastic ornamentation.

The scariest thing about this watch is, that it seems obvious that it could be even thinner with a few small changes! It's already incredible as it is.

Watch Tables | 21 comments

Quadron 120 (Caliber 485 variant)

Style pair 485-99; Mon, 11 January 2021 15:31

Model name: unknown
Type: Quadron 120
Period/date: ca1934
Gender: Men's

Case Maker: Gruen (House GF line)
Case Material: 10k Gold Filled (stamped "Gruen 10k Gold Filled" on outer caseback edge)
Case Serial: 2,279,103
Case Style no: 99

Caliber: 485
Movement Maker: Alpina / "Guild Watch"
Movement Serial: none on bridges--not brave enough to remove dial

Bracelet: Sturdy gold filled link bracelet with adjustable clasp

Other info: According to the master book, this model was introduced with caliber 681. This is a later, raised gold numeral dial variant, which now uses caliber 485. Some places note 485 was introduced in 1935, but I would say this is earlier, ca. 1934 production. I think 681 may have been discontinued by that time. Of note, there also appears to be a Caliber 179 model that uses Style number 99. Perhaps a lady's variant, or at least a strap variant to use a round caliber? I have never seen an example.


The bracelet fits like a dream. Amazingly lightweight, but a large size for its day. Surprised I haven't seen other examples.

1930's | 1 comment

Mens wristwatch 705/2 in nickel, Strap 150

Style number 2 (men's version); Sun, 10 January 2021 17:50

Model name : Strap 150
Type : wristwatch
Period/date : c. 1930-31
Gender : men's

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : Nickel
Case Serial : 8512576
Case Style no : 2

Caliber : 705
Movement Maker : Gruen Guild
Movement Serial: 1924


Here is the men's version of style number 2. This one is the '20s version of the el cheapo: nickel case, but still 15 jewels. I react badly to nickel. It seems that whoever bought this watch did, too. Also, note to self: never engrave a nickel watch! You'd think they'd have known that in the '20s too...

It runs for a short while.

It has such an elegance to it: if only it were in gold...

1930's | 3 comments

Women's wristlet 179/1 - WR83 Paris Square

Style number 1 (women's version); Sun, 10 January 2021 17:37

Model name : WR83 Paris Square
Type : wristwatch
Period/date : c. 1925
Gender : women's

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : 14k Gold reinforced with metal
Case Serial : 1010445
Case Style no : 1

Caliber : 179
Movement Maker : Gruen Guild
Movement Serial: 118596


A fine style! This one has a broken mainspring. I also have the men's version of style number 1 (705/1), which doesn't resemble this watch at all.

Were these getting names in 1925?

1920's | 5 comments

Cartouche 212 variant.

Wed, 06 January 2021 22:37

Model name : Cartouche 212 variation
Type : Cartouche
Period/date :1929-30
Gender :

Case Maker :Wads
Case Material : White gold filled
Case Serial :52885917
Case Style no :72

Caliber :835
Movement Maker :Aegler
Movement Serial:15003001

Bracelet :Of period. Likely original. 4 adj.









1920's | 0 comments

Cartouche 76 variant.

Wed, 06 January 2021 20:46

Model name : Cartouche 76- variation
Type : Cartouche
Period/date :1926-27
Gender : Female

Case Maker :Wads
Case Material : White gold filled
Case Serial : 926434.
Case Style no :53

Caliber : 153
Movement Maker : Favre.
Movement Serial:

Bracelet :Sturdy. Of period. Likely original.









1920's | 5 comments

Strap 43

Mon, 04 January 2021 19:27

Model name : Strap 43
Type :
Period/date :1925-26
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : Green gold filled
Case Serial :504642
Case Style no :27

Caliber : 707
Movement Maker : Lavina
Movement Serial:62226

Bracelet :

Other info :








1920's | 2 comments

Strap 789

Mon, 04 January 2021 19:13

Model name :
Type : Veri-Thin
Period/date :1954-55
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Gruen
Case Material : yellow gold filled, guildite back
Case Serial : c878437
Case Style no :809

Caliber : Veri-Thin 335 R
Movement Maker : Gruen-Cincinatti
Movement Serial:

Bracelet :

Other info : Getting shipped off to Iceland of all places along w Strap 43 so thought I'd doc:Original crystal, curved dial.









1950's and Up | 3 comments

Strap 441

Curvex; Sat, 05 December 2020 16:57

Model name : Strap 441
Type : Curvex
Period/date : 1943
Gender : Gents

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : 10K gold filled over sterling silver
Case Serial : G381923
Case Style no : 449

Caliber : 440
Movement Maker : Gruen Precision
Movement Serial: 0349

Bracelet : Leather

Other info : Pink gold, sourced from the Gruen Watch Catalog. Style also came in yellow gold.




1940's | 3 comments

WR31 (32) Paris square

Ca1923; Fri, 25 September 2020 04:28

Model name : WR 31 engraved option (or WR32 with 31 dial)
Type : Paris square wristlet
Period/date : 1923
Gender : women’s

Case Maker : Wadsworth Gruen
Case Material : Ultra Quality GF
Case Serial : 731019
Case Style no : “8 3/4 Ligne W”

Caliber : 823
Movement Maker : Aegler
Movement Serial: not visible

Bracelet : none

Other info : the wire lugs are not solid. There’s a gap in the middle. Not sure about the dial.


1920's | 0 comments

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