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Ristside Varsity 1938

Mon, 24 June 2013 22:34

Model name : Varsity
Type : Ristside
Period/date : 1938
Gender : Male

Case Maker : Star watch case co
Case Material : 10kgf bezel, guildite back
Case Serial : 665660
Case Style no : 352

Caliber : 401
Movement Maker : ?
Movement Serial: 4-50206

Bracelet : not original, flex usa pat 3587226 (1971)

Other info : You can only wear this watch on the side of your wrist. When you're driving it is easy to see the time. Strap size is 13mm. In general this model shows a lot of wear on the lugs. A patent for Gruen's side wrist watch is: US2187205A

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[Picture caseback inside]
[Picture movement]
[Picture ad] - There is an advertising card (march 1939) which shows this watch

1930's | 6 comments

Curvex Knight (330)

Sat, 22 June 2013 09:49

Model name : Knight
Type : Curvex Precision
Period/date : 1937 - 1940
Gender : Mens

Case Maker : ? Gruen
Case Material : 10k gold filled
Case Serial : 2524163
Case Style no : 280

Caliber : 330
Movement Maker : ?
Movement Serial: 315925 (could be wrong)

Bracelet : Speidel flex, pat 2.689.450, GF

Other info : I think it is huge! (compared to my ladies watches) This one is intended for my dad. Sadly the movement (wobly balance) didn't survive the trip overseas. I assume the lugs are slightly bend to fit the bracelet... Frown From lug end to lug end it is 45mm. It has some nice art deco engraving on the bezel. Shows some age.

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1930's | 2 comments

Zephyr circa 1947

driver's style with hinging lugs; Fri, 21 June 2013 22:10

Here's another one from my inventory:

Model name : Strap 577 (from my Gruen book) advertised as the "Zephyr"
Type : Precision Veri Thin
Period/date : Circa 1947
Gender : Men's

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : 10kt gold filled front and back
Case Serial : G948968
Case Style no : 558

Caliber : 335
Movement Maker : Gruen, Switzerland. Later, these 335s were made at a Norwood, Ohio, facility, but this is a Swiss one
Movement Serial: 610384

Bracelet : none

Other info : (strictly my opinion here, folks): Gruen came out with several very handsome swivel lug driver's watches in the 1940s. I love this particular model because of the heavily scalloped bezel. It corresponds to "Strap Model 577" on page 145 (top center) of my Gruen book. If anyone knows whether this model was assigned a "name" by Gruen, let me know and i'll update this listing. Takes a 16mm band. I photographed the watch without the band to show off those lugs in all their glory. They span a whopping 53mm when measured end to end. (That's one mm longer than the Majesty!) Forum members have since ID'd this model as being the "Zephyr." Thank you for this. The ads show the watch with the band sliding underneath the lug rather than over the top like many of the other models of these drivers' watches. This is nice, because it shows the lugs nicely, rather than hide them.

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1940's | 7 comments

Gruen Barclay

many times called the "Spider"; Thu, 20 June 2013 17:48

Been absent for a while persuing other watches. I don't believe we have a "Barclay" on the record yet, so here's one I acquired back in 2010 and am getting ready for sale on my website. Bruce

Model name : Barclay
Type : Precision/Veri Thin
Period/date : 1950
Gender : men's

Case Maker : Jonell Watch Case Company
Case Material : 10kt yellow gold filled front and back
Case Serial : M43722
Case Style no : 723

Caliber :
Movement Maker : Gruen (at the Norwood Ohio facility, presumably, since this is not marked SWITZERLAND on the dial)
Movement Serial: unable to locate

Bracelet : leather band.

Other info : The following are my observtions/opinions only, and are not meant as gospel. The Barclay, which many dealers and collectors refer to as the "Spider," came out in the early 1950s (this one is circa 1950). It was an unsual watch, somewhat effeminate because of the delicate wire "cage" surrounding an otherwise round case. I love the engraving on this model. I'm guessing that "Sam" was an unusual guy in some way, hence the gift of Y.P Ceebs of an unsusual watch to an unusual guy! (The engraving states: "Sam. Just because you're you Y.P. Ceebs") The use of a tonneau-shaped movement inside a round case is also very intriguing, but one should remember that Gruen by this time was in financial straits and was probably using up stocks of existing movements in inventory any way they could. Today, the "Barclay" is one of Gruen's iconic watches, instantly recognizable by its distinictive shape. I think the copper color dial on this one is also unusual. Most of the other ones I have seen are either white or Butler (silvered) finish. This one is finished with a 16mm reddish-brown leather band.

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1950's and Up | 11 comments

The caliber 126

DG&S movement; Thu, 20 June 2013 01:20

And even less info on this one....

15 jewel movement, 22.02mm diameter which i believe is 9 3/4 lignes?, If i recall correctly from the old site this was an Aegler movement from the mid-late 1920's. Speculators on the Bulova site seems to believe that this movement base was also used by Favre when they made movements for Bulova in the late 20's.

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The caliber database | 4 comments

The caliber 120

Guild movement; Thu, 20 June 2013 00:57

I dont have a lot of information on this one but someone once said a picture is worth a thousand words.... Razz
23.75mm diameter or 10 lignes (10 1/2 lignes per Bazzab)in size, 15 jewels and the movement number is just visible beside the escape wheel.

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The caliber database | 6 comments

The caliber 835

Guild movement; Mon, 17 June 2013 19:26

The Gruen 835 was made by Aegler starting approximately in 1924. It is also known as the Rolex 200 or Alpina 835. It is a 6.75 x 11" 15 jewel 4 adj movement bearing patent #+97101. All are marked with the movement number just below the balance wheel. EDIT: I understand that the 835B has interchangeable parts but apparently is a slightly different size. Still trying to find out more info on the 835B

I've got 3 different examples here with slightly different markings:

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The caliber database | 0 comments

Raised Dial Markers on Quadron

Sun, 16 June 2013 16:36

I have attached pictures of a Quadron that I picked along the way. This dial is different fro me because all the lettering / numbers are raised off the dial. I have not seen this in my short collection time. The middle of the dial seems to have a sterling silver insert as the finish / texture is different.

I would appreciate any help on this dial identification?

Happy Fathers Day to those dads who have so carefully crafted and nurtured the little people in their lives.

Model name : Gruen Precision
Type : Quadron
Period/date : 1930's
Gender : Mens

Case Maker : Pioneer
Case Material : Gold Filled
Case Serial : 75481
Case Style no :

Caliber : 123
Movement Maker : Gruen
Movement Serial:706445

Bracelet : N/A

Other info :

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1930's | 1 comment

The caliber 707

Guild-era movement; Sat, 15 June 2013 16:11

The caliber 707 is a 15 jewel movement and is 12-1/2 ligne or 28.4mm in diameter. The caliber 713 is a 7-jewel variant of this movement. Although these are commonly marked on the pillar plate with the caliber number, usually in the space between the escape wheel finger and the balance wheel, occasionally they are unmarked.
Photographs by MikeyT.
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The caliber database | 1 comment

The caliber 440

Curvex movement; Sat, 15 June 2013 16:01

The caliber 440 is 17 jewels and is 8-3/4 x 9-3/4 ligne or 19.4mm x22mm. It is the third Curvex movement that was produced by Gruen and shares parts with the caliber 430 and 435. This caliber is clearly marked with the number in the space between the barrel bridge and the balance cock.
Photo by ArtB