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Convertible wristlet - Plate 41- plane Bascine style

Sun, 14 February 2021 16:48

Model name: convertible wristlet plate 41
Type: convertible
Period/date: 1919-1920
Gender: female

Case Maker: wadsworth
Case Material: pilot quality yellow gold filled
Case Serial: 606203
Case Style no: none

Caliber: 10.5 ligne. OF 807 (winding 12 o clock)
Movement Maker: rebberg aegler
Movement Serial:

Bracelet: none

Other info: engraving only on the inside. A.N?.L.D 5-19-20.


1910's and prior | 6 comments

Calibre 1617

17 jewel variant of cal 161; Tue, 09 February 2021 22:21

This is calibre 1617. 17 jewel variation of calibre 161.
I am not sure if this is Favre or Aegler....anyone?


Setting works:



The caliber database | 3 comments

Strap 741

Mon, 08 February 2021 23:11

Model name: Veri-Thin Viking.
Type: Veri-Thin

Case Maker:Armand J. Lemieux, NY
Case Material: 14 K white gold
Case Serial:K81212
Case Style no:771

Caliber: 335R
Movement Maker:Gruen Cincinnatti
Movement Serial:












1950's and Up | 6 comments

Strap 734

Mon, 08 February 2021 22:57

Model name: Strap 734
Type: Autowind.
Period/date: 1952-53
Gender: Male

Case Maker: Jonell Case Co.
Case Material: 14 k white gold
Case Serial:M10189
Case Style no:744

Caliber: 480
Movement Maker: Gruen
Movement Serial:











1950's and Up | 4 comments

Cartouche 366

Mon, 08 February 2021 22:42

Model name: Cartouche 366
Type: Cartouche
Gender: Female

Case Maker: Wads
Case Material: White gold filled
Case Serial: 5408223
Case Style no: 0S-63

Caliber: 165
Movement Maker: Marc Favre, Madretsch
Movement Serial:1434340

Bracelet: Kestenmade. Of period.

Other: Missing crystal.










1920's | 5 comments

Lavina supplying Gallet (Gruen 766)

Tue, 02 February 2021 15:00

Not much discussion of Lavina lately, and scarce info on the forum on the early Lavina calibers like 720, 721. But even less on the caliber 766--have never even seen one actual picture. I wanted to share an interesting specimen, reported as 12 size, finished by Gallet & Co.

It has the characteristic setting bridge on the 720, 750 variants, as well as the Lavina serial number and "Deposé" markings placed exactly as seen on the open-face ones made for Gruen/Premo/WSC. Likely there's a Lavina or Paul William Brack deposé hiding somewhere for this bridge layout.

But this Gallet is Swiss set, so here we also see the setting bits just like the Gruen Caliber 766.

edit: (capturing info) dial-side sn 836156; 17J/3ADJ

Watches from the Guild | 7 comments

March 10, 1925 Patent Box ( & Pat Pending ) with a false bottom.

Sat, 23 January 2021 19:38

Period :Mid 1920-1930
Watch type : ladies
Size :tbd
Inventor :Harold R. Haerr (assigned to Gruen Watch Co)
Patents :66772 (Filed May 20, 1922. Patented March 10, 1925)

Box maker. Unkown.






1920s | 9 comments

Caliber 200 & 201

Round, 8.75L, 15J & 16J Factory D & S; Wed, 20 January 2021 15:23

Size: 8 3/4 ligne
Jewels: 15 or 16 (#s only) - possibly cal 200 is 15j, cal 201 is 16j variant
Adjustments: 4 (#s only)
Configuration: hunter
Signed: Gruen W. Co. ("Factory D") or Gruen Guild ("Factory S")
-Factory D - TBD
-Factory S - Straub/Alpina
Example date: ~1919-1921
Serial number(s): front plate only
-Factory D: 38997
-Factory S: unobserved
Dial markings: unobserved


Other info: Re-posting Liz's Factory S "200" variant (with 16J) from previous forum threads. This began its life as an FHF ebauche, but it has a modified setting bridge and custom setting bits--so the usual FHF setting patent is not stamped on it. Noting it, as it explains why the setting bits shown in later movement catalogs (1939, etc.) are different: they reflect a modified/custom version of the "new" FHF setting works patented in late 1926. I doubt this caliber was actually in use past 1926, but Gruen was apparently still buying movements & parts to provide factory repairs.

The caliber database | 2 comments

Caliber 615

7.75L, Round, Extra Precision, 16J; Fri, 15 January 2021 03:16

Here’s one I forgot I had—can’t locate movement but stumbled up on old pics. I could never ID until Gary’s post on the Cattin/mystery 8L thread.

Size: 7 3/4 ligne
Jewels: 16 (#s only)
Adjustments: 4 (#s only)
Configuration: hunter
Signed: Gruen W. Co. Suisse
Supplier: unknown (possibly Aegler by the markings)

Example date: ~1913-1915
Serial number(s): has two:
-bridges: 12?223 (perhaps 122223)
-front plate: 2223
Dial markings: unknown (didn’t capture)


The caliber database | 10 comments

Unknown 5th Avenue

325 Quadron; Thu, 14 January 2021 04:14

Model name : unknown
Type : wristwatch
Period/date : 1932
Gender : men's

Case Maker : Gruen 5th Avenue
Case Material : 14k gold
Case Serial : 55123
Case Style no : none

Caliber : 325 21 jewel variant
Movement Maker : Gruen Guild
Movement Serial: 235033
Other: Marked 5 Adjustments






I had no idea what I was getting with this one... it has definitely surpassed expectations, even if it's only a 20 jewel watch at the moment! Anyone got a scrap 21 jewel variant lying around, and if so, can I buy the pallet cap jewel setting?

Did any of these 5th Avenue models have names, or were they all unique?

1930's | 4 comments

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