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Caliber 200 & 201

Round, 8.75L, 15J & 16J Factory D & S; Wed, 20 January 2021 15:23

Size: 8 3/4 ligne
Jewels: 15 or 16 (#s only) - possibly cal 200 is 15j, cal 201 is 16j variant
Adjustments: 4 (#s only)
Configuration: hunter
Signed: Gruen W. Co. ("Factory D") or Gruen Guild ("Factory S")
Suppliers
-Factory D - TBD
-Factory S - Straub/Alpina
Example date: ~1919-1921
Serial number(s): front plate only
-Factory D: 38997
-Factory S: unobserved
Dial markings: unobserved

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7677&private=0

Other info: Re-posting Liz's Factory S "200" variant (with 16J) from previous forum threads. This began its life as an FHF ebauche, but it has a modified setting bridge and custom setting bits--so the usual FHF setting patent is not stamped on it. Noting it, as it explains why the setting bits shown in later movement catalogs (1939, etc.) are different: they reflect a modified/custom version of the "new" FHF setting works patented in late 1926. I doubt this caliber was actually in use past 1926, but Gruen was apparently still buying movements & parts to provide factory repairs.

The caliber database | 2 comments

Caliber 615

7.75L, Round, Extra Precision, 16J; Fri, 15 January 2021 03:16

Here’s one I forgot I had—can’t locate movement but stumbled up on old pics. I could never ID until Gary’s post on the Cattin/mystery 8L thread.

Size: 7 3/4 ligne
Jewels: 16 (#s only)
Adjustments: 4 (#s only)
Configuration: hunter
Signed: Gruen W. Co. Suisse
Supplier: unknown (possibly Aegler by the markings)

Example date: ~1913-1915
Serial number(s): has two:
-bridges: 12?223 (perhaps 122223)
-front plate: 2223
Dial markings: unknown (didn’t capture)

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7633&private=0

The caliber database | 10 comments

Unknown 5th Avenue

325 Quadron; Thu, 14 January 2021 04:14

Model name : unknown
Type : wristwatch
Period/date : 1932
Gender : men's

Case Maker : Gruen 5th Avenue
Case Material : 14k gold
Case Serial : 55123
Case Style no : none

Caliber : 325 21 jewel variant
Movement Maker : Gruen Guild
Movement Serial: 235033
Other: Marked 5 Adjustments

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7618&private=0

I had no idea what I was getting with this one... it has definitely surpassed expectations, even if it's only a 20 jewel watch at the moment! Anyone got a scrap 21 jewel variant lying around, and if so, can I buy the pallet cap jewel setting?

Did any of these 5th Avenue models have names, or were they all unique?

1930's | 4 comments

March 10, 1925 Patent Box for Strap

Tue, 12 January 2021 21:56

Period :Mid 1920-1930
Watch type :Men's Strap.
Size :tbd
Inventor :Harold R. Haerr (assigned to Gruen Watch Co)
Patents :66772 (Filed May 20, 1922. Patented March 10, 1925)

Box maker. Unkown.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7602&private=0 .

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1920s | 3 comments

Quadron 120 (Caliber 485 variant)

Style pair 485-99; Mon, 11 January 2021 15:31

Model name: unknown
Type: Quadron 120
Period/date: ca1934
Gender: Men's

Case Maker: Gruen (House GF line)
Case Material: 10k Gold Filled (stamped "Gruen 10k Gold Filled" on outer caseback edge)
Case Serial: 2,279,103
Case Style no: 99

Caliber: 485
Movement Maker: Alpina / "Guild Watch"
Movement Serial: none on bridges--not brave enough to remove dial

Bracelet: Sturdy gold filled link bracelet with adjustable clasp

Other info: According to the master book, this model was introduced with caliber 681. This is a later, raised gold numeral dial variant, which now uses caliber 485. Some places note 485 was introduced in 1935, but I would say this is earlier, ca. 1934 production. I think 681 may have been discontinued by that time. Of note, there also appears to be a Caliber 179 model that uses Style number 99. Perhaps a lady's variant, or at least a strap variant to use a round caliber? I have never seen an example.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7595&private=0

The bracelet fits like a dream. Amazingly lightweight, but a large size for its day. Surprised I haven't seen other examples.

1930's | 1 comment

Strap 62

Style number 1; Sun, 10 January 2021 22:43

Model name : unknown
Type : wristwatch
Period/date : c. 1925
Gender : men's

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : 14k Gold Filled
Case Serial : 5189575
Case Style no : 1

Caliber : 707
Movement Maker : Gruen Guild
Movement Serial: 103306

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7582&private=0

I wonder who L. Gant was.

The only thing in common between this 707/1 and the women's 179/1 (besides the case maker) is that they're both Paris Squares. This one runs, and I like the hands a lot.

1920's | 22 comments

The Caliber 833

6''' oval women's movement; Sun, 10 January 2021 22:31

Maker: Gruen Guild
Size: 5 ligne
Jewel Markings: 15 Jewels
Adj Markings: 4 Adj
Config: Hunter
Dial feet: 12 & 5.25 positions
Dial release mech: side screws
Example date: unknown

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7577&private=0

The caliber database | 1 comment

Mens wristwatch 705/2 in nickel, Strap 150

Style number 2 (men's version); Sun, 10 January 2021 17:50

Model name : Strap 150
Type : wristwatch
Period/date : c. 1930-31
Gender : men's

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : Nickel
Case Serial : 8512576
Case Style no : 2

Caliber : 705
Movement Maker : Gruen Guild
Movement Serial: 1924

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7575&private=0

Here is the men's version of style number 2. This one is the '20s version of the el cheapo: nickel case, but still 15 jewels. I react badly to nickel. It seems that whoever bought this watch did, too. Also, note to self: never engrave a nickel watch! You'd think they'd have known that in the '20s too...

It runs for a short while.

It has such an elegance to it: if only it were in gold...

1930's | 3 comments

Women's wristlet 179/1 - WR83 Paris Square

Style number 1 (women's version); Sun, 10 January 2021 17:37

Model name : WR83 Paris Square
Type : wristwatch
Period/date : c. 1925
Gender : women's

Case Maker : Wadsworth
Case Material : 14k Gold reinforced with metal
Case Serial : 1010445
Case Style no : 1

Caliber : 179
Movement Maker : Gruen Guild
Movement Serial: 118596

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7571&private=0

A fine style! This one has a broken mainspring. I also have the men's version of style number 1 (705/1), which doesn't resemble this watch at all.

Were these getting names in 1925?

1920's | 5 comments

The Caliber ... [I guess I get to name it, but I'm just speechless right now]

17''' experimental PW caliber; Sun, 10 January 2021 04:51

The title says it all.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7562&private=0

I checked the plates and the numbers match. This is a factory original.

Characteristic of V2:
- Marked Precision in diamond (!!!)
- Adjusted to "All Positions", marked on balance cock
- Moustache pallet fork
- Does not use banking pins
- Uses the V2 click and associated bridges

Characteristic of V3.5:
- Standard balance, not chronometer
- Serial number (!!!)

Characteristic of both:
- Can be Swiss stem set
- 19 jewels
- Can be marked Suisse
- Jewels in gold chaton settings

Characteristic of neither:
- Simple regulator (V3.5 would have a swan regulator and V2 would have a reverse swan regulator)
- Plate/balance jewel setting cut out exposes the banking plates & pallet fork (the edges are nickel plated, so it was done during the manufacturing process)

Anyone care to suggest a name?

The caliber database | 18 comments

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