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Cal 311 - Curvex Royal [message #20495] Tue, 14 July 2026 03:42 Go to next message
JackW is currently offline  JackW
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Registered: May 2013
Location: Denver
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There is another thread featuring the ID for the Curvex Royal. However, based on Kyle Roger's book, think that other watch is the Curvex Duke. This I believe is the better match to the Curvex Royal.

Model name: Gruen Curvex Royal
Type:
Period/date: 1936 or 1938
Gender: M

Case Maker: Wadsworth
Case Material: 14k Gold Fill
Case Serial: G 003773
Case Style no: 311 228

Caliber: 311
Movement Maker: Gruen
Movement Serial: 414564

Bracelet/Band: Recent replacement

This recent acquisition would be the Curvex Royal. Per discussion with Kyle it came with white and black dial. This is the black dial variant in a 14k gold fill case. While the ID on the black dial rests on Kyle's research in his book, the case style is still shown in print ads from the period.
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=12359&private=0


/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=12360&private=0
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=12361&private=0
Disassembled for cleaning and re-staffing:
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=12363&private=0
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=12362&private=0
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=12364&private=0

All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

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Re: Cal 311 - Curvex Royal [message #20497 is a reply to message #20495] Tue, 14 July 2026 13:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ytony2876 is currently offline  ytony2876
Messages: 32
Registered: March 2026
Gruen Apprentice
Wow, this is actually the first time I've seen the black dial variant for this model, and the condition is absolutely amazing Laughing   
Also, comparing the pictures from that previous thread with this one, you can definitely tell at a glance that they're not the same model.
I especially love the dial with the stick markers shown in the ad poster. It's such a pity they are so rare, I've been looking for one for a while now but haven't been able to find or buy it yet.

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Re: Cal 311 - Curvex Royal [message #20499 is a reply to message #20497] Tue, 14 July 2026 14:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
afire is currently offline  afire
Messages: 1447
Registered: May 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Gruen Authority
Yep, subtle difference, but clearly different.

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Re: Cal 311 - Curvex Royal [message #20520 is a reply to message #20499] Fri, 31 July 2026 14:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ytony2876 is currently offline  ytony2876
Messages: 32
Registered: March 2026
Gruen Apprentice
By chance, I actually stumbled upon what seems to be the patent for this case design today
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=12377&private=0

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Re: Cal 311 - Curvex Royal [message #20521 is a reply to message #20520] Fri, 31 July 2026 16:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Passion is currently offline  Passion
Messages: 138
Registered: July 2025
Location: France
Gruen Guildsman
ytony2876,
Je me suis autorisé ;-) Elle parait plus grande sur la photo, c'est à cause du volume en 3D. Sinon, exactement le même gabarit. Je m'excuse, je n'ai pas réussi à prendre la photographie avec l'aiguille des secondes pile poil comme le dessin...
I allowed myself ;-)  It looks larger in the photo, it’s because of the 3D volume. Otherwise, exactly the same size. I apologize, I didn’t manage to take the picture with the second hand exactly like the drawing...

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=12378&private=0
  • Attachment: 01.jpg
    (Size: 550.25KB, Downloaded 423 times)


A ship in a harbour is safe, but that is not what ships are built for...

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Re: Cal 311 - Curvex Royal [message #20560 is a reply to message #20521] Fri, 04 September 2026 14:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JackW is currently offline  JackW
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Nice comparison you made Passion. That’s a good way to do it. Does look like the patent images.

ytony2876, I had not seen this black variant before either and since I made the initial post on this, I’ve seen two more in various states go through eBay. Maybe you bought one of them? It is an amazingly stylish watch; generally that isn’t what drives my collecting interest. Yet there is something to owning one of these long cased watches and I can understand the regard that other collectors have for these vs the round “tool” watches that seem to make up the bulk of what I collect.

All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

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Re: Cal 311 - Curvex Royal [message #20642 is a reply to message #20560] Wed, 30 September 2026 16:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Passion is currently offline  Passion
Messages: 138
Registered: July 2025
Location: France
Gruen Guildsman
Hello,
I found an original dial for my 311-228 Royal (with a series 3 311 movement).
Now it's clean (well, clean-ish: it still needs a light cleaning, but without touching the dial, I like its "aged" look).
Indeed, when I compare them under a loupe:
Refinished dial: the left leg of the G is angled too steeply, and the font is too thin. The dial sits tilted relative to the case.
Original dial: the left leg of the G is angled slightly less steeply, but still with that "straight line" section, and the font is a bit "bolder". The dial is properly aligned vertically with the case.
The problem now is that I need to take the crown and stem from the series 2 311 and fit it to the series 3, or else swap the dials.
I'll look into it this winter, after completing my short training course.

PS : Thanks a lot to Robert.

;-)


/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=12477&private=0
  • Attachment: 01.jpg
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A ship in a harbour is safe, but that is not what ships are built for...

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Re: Cal 311 - Curvex Royal [message #20647 is a reply to message #20642] Wed, 30 September 2026 17:31 Go to previous message
JackW is currently offline  JackW
Messages: 2238
Registered: May 2013
Location: Denver
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That is a much better dial. Whoever Robert is, that was nice of them to help you out.

As to swapping the crown and stem around, let me know if you need a stem. I can help you out in that department. All 311 stems fit the different variants of that caliber. May need to worry about length with swapping crowns around. Too long is easy to fit, with a pin vise and a #0 barrette needle file. Learning to cut and fit stems is a good first skill to have.

All I know is based on hard work & writing by others. I can only aspire to augment this body of knowledge. If I am wrong it is because of my own failings. -me

"If I have seen farther it is by standing on the shoulders of giants." - Newton

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