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Home » The Gruen Model Database » 1920's » Octagon Wristlet (Calibre 103)
Octagon Wristlet [message #13731] Fri, 11 September 2020 20:33 Go to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1038
Registered: October 2018
Location: City of Lake Salt
Gruen Authority
Model name : Unknown.
Type : Octagon Wristlet.
Period/date : Early 1920s
Gender : Female.

Case Maker :GRUEN
Case Material :18K White Gold, Platinum top, 12 diamond
Case Serial :9338
Case Style no :n/a

Caliber : 103
Movement Maker : Gruen W. Co
Movement Serial:n/a 15 JEWELS, 4 ADJS

Bracelet : TBD, not original.

Other info : Plat. Faced, Gruen, 9338, O 103. 18k. Gruen crown; not original.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7126&private=0.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7120&private=0.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7121&private=0.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7122&private=0.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7123&private=0.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7124&private=0.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7125&private=0.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7127&private=0.


One of the ads that Bernd found showing the closest match to this model. c; 1922.


/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7128&private=0



Case also pointed out to me similarities in some of these from WCOW 1918. Diamond setting similar to 25E, among other things.


/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7129&private=0



Matthias

[Updated on: Fri, 11 September 2020 22:21]

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Re: Octagon Wristlet [message #13733 is a reply to message #13731] Fri, 11 September 2020 21:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thesnark17 is currently offline  thesnark17
Messages: 618
Registered: January 2017
Gruen Master
A very fine watch indeed! Nice to see another one from the high end.
Re: Octagon Wristlet [message #13734 is a reply to message #13733] Fri, 11 September 2020 23:23 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1038
Registered: October 2018
Location: City of Lake Salt
Gruen Authority
Thanks,
Did not hesitate for one second in saving it. In fact, I had to pull the trigger without a pic of the movement, something I don't recommend.
Def more high end than I am! Laughing


Matthias
Re: Octagon Wristlet [message #13735 is a reply to message #13734] Sat, 12 September 2020 01:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1185
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
It’s a beauty, Matt. Congrats again!

Is the interior all yellow gold?
Re: Octagon Wristlet [message #13736 is a reply to message #13735] Sat, 12 September 2020 04:16 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1038
Registered: October 2018
Location: City of Lake Salt
Gruen Authority
Case wrote on Fri, 11 September 2020 19:26

Is the interior all yellow gold?
Yes.


Matthias
Re: Octagon Wristlet [message #13737 is a reply to message #13736] Sat, 12 September 2020 11:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Barney Green
Messages: 1710
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany
Gruen Authority
What a beauty, love it! Interesting that it is a two layer construction with an inner yellow gold and outer platinum shell. Is this because white gold at this time was still hard to compose?

Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)
Re: Octagon Wristlet [message #13738 is a reply to message #13737] Sat, 12 September 2020 13:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1185
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Looking at cost per Troy Oz in 1920, platinum was $100, gold only $20.67. Platinum was spiking $150+ in 1918-19.

That would make this version more affordable, if still opulent. Still looks like it’s at least 50% platinum!

18k white alloy is problematic for a wristie—has to be replated every 3-6 months on wedding bands, cuz it’s 75% yellow stuff. Did they do 18k white on anything? Too classy for me to own one!

[Updated on: Sat, 12 September 2020 14:08]

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Re: Octagon Wristlet [message #13739 is a reply to message #13737] Sat, 12 September 2020 17:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1038
Registered: October 2018
Location: City of Lake Salt
Gruen Authority
Barney Green wrote on Sat, 12 September 2020 05:22
What a beauty, love it! Interesting that it is a two layer construction with an inner yellow gold and outer platinum shell. Is this because white gold at this time was still hard to compose?
I am still trying to figure out the construction. Let me revise a bit.
Where the data on the inner caseback is stamped, clearly white gold (don't be decieved by reflection)But the support collar around the caseback, I'm positive now, is actually green gold.

Outer shell is platinum.
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7135&private=0



Platinum top for sure.

/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=7136&private=0



Matthias
Re: Octagon Wristlet [message #13740 is a reply to message #13739] Sat, 12 September 2020 18:03 Go to previous message
Barney Green
Messages: 1710
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany
Gruen Authority
I'd say:
18k white gold back
18k green gold inner support ring (may be 14k only)
Platinum top

Just wild guessing...


Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)
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