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Home » The Gruen Model Database » 1910's and prior » Oval Ribbon Wristlet
Oval Ribbon Wristlet [message #14761] Wed, 14 April 2021 06:23 Go to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1039
Registered: October 2018
Location: City of Lake Salt
Gruen Authority
Model name: Oval Silk Ribbon Wristlet- Silver variant of Plate XXXII
Type: Wristlet
Period/date: 1915-1917
Gender: Female

Case Maker: Robert Gygax
Case Material: .935
Case Serial: 5
Case Style no: na

Caliber: 100
Movement Maker: Gruen
Movement Serial:

Bracelet: Clasp stamped "Sterling", "D & C" for Daggett and Clap out of Attleboro, Mass

Other info: Rampant bear, 0.935, R.G., Gruen Watch Co, Suisse, 5

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Matthias

[Updated on: Wed, 14 April 2021 06:47]

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Re: Oval Ribbon Wristlet [message #14766 is a reply to message #14761] Wed, 14 April 2021 17:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Man, I am jealous of this watch! Robert Gygax stamp is a very cool find, and case #5?

Could yours be from 1920? It seems to me Gruen reset their Swiss case #s after WW1, when they had been forced to use USA-made Sterling cases (the 925/1000 ones). I’ve theorized it was 1920, possibly as early as 1919. But seeing the movement layout & new stud carrier, I’ll wager 1920. I say that even with “Gruen W Co” case stamp vs WSC. There are others I’ve seen from this time that have “Gruen”, the beginning if the end for wsc.

Don’t mean to nitpick about dates, and what I really mean is, yours is much more of a showpiece: I’m pretty sure it is Gruen’s 5th complete watch imported after restoring their Swiss supply chain.
Re: Oval Ribbon Wristlet [message #14771 is a reply to message #14766] Wed, 14 April 2021 18:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1039
Registered: October 2018
Location: City of Lake Salt
Gruen Authority
Hmmm, 1920? That's interesting.....No I don't mind you nitpicking on dates, go ahead. I'm open to consensus. That's the latest estimate I've heard. Got any solid proof I can...see? I wasn't aware of the case reset after the first world war. Convince me. Or I can take your word. For some reason I was thinking this predates the 1917 wcow...

Matthias
Re: Oval Ribbon Wristlet [message #14772 is a reply to message #14771] Wed, 14 April 2021 19:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Barney Green
Messages: 1747
Registered: February 2014
Location: Wolfsburg, Germany
Gruen Authority
Case numbering has been up to the supplier, so I do not think that the case number will be helpful in dating the watch...

Gruen, Gruen, Gruen ist alles was ich habe... Gruen, Gruen, Gruen is all I have...(German folklore song)
Re: Oval Ribbon Wristlet [message #14773 is a reply to message #14772] Thu, 15 April 2021 13:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Well, certainly don’t take my word for it! Regardless, I don’t want to further hijack the thread—a bad habit for me I’m afraid. The date in the OP is well-founded and very plausible. If there’s more to the Swiss import case story, it will have to be first proven out.
Re: Oval Ribbon Wristlet [message #14774 is a reply to message #14773] Thu, 15 April 2021 15:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1039
Registered: October 2018
Location: City of Lake Salt
Gruen Authority
Trying to slip away are ya? You're not hijacking and you know it. It's what we do here: tangents. Well what do you got? My thread and I'd love to hear or see your theory! Let's see it.

Matthias
Re: Oval Ribbon Wristlet [message #14775 is a reply to message #14774] Thu, 15 April 2021 16:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Laughing --slippery, but can't get away!

Yours is not the first on the forum with these markings and a 1920ish movement. Rewind to Jack's post from 2013: swiss import sterling case #42. That's what first started me down this road. link may work; or search "not silver bells, but it is sterling"


I also find very few movement swaps among women's watches (unlike the heavily-swapped quadrons). The market has never been there to incentivize it. They were either scrapped or left unrepaired. So I would not first assume your case is 5 years earlier than your movement; I'd look at it first as "can this be original?"

Look back from the 1910-1917 watches previously shared, and the case numbers are high.

Separately, you'll see that other Gold swiss import case numbers from the early 1921/22 period are also around 1k or below. Liz's 849 is the most beautiful, so I'll share it.

Liz's 849

Markings same as yours & Jack's--but different material (14k). I propose that this is the start of the "Import" case number line, which grew only to about 7,000 by the late 1920s. Gruen was restructuring their portfolio; it would make sense case number sequence would be included. It now included both Sterling & Gold in the same Import case # line.

In between 1920 and the 1910-1917 watches, there is a transition. I find from 1918-1919 Gruen shifted all of its Sterling cases out of Swiss & into USA made (925/1000). I believe that is due to wartime restrictions, plus increased demand for trench watches from Gruen.

That's the short version, and I don't have time currently to put a full document of all the cases for each. Perhaps a different thread later.

[Updated on: Thu, 15 April 2021 16:14]

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Re: Oval Ribbon Wristlet [message #14776 is a reply to message #14775] Thu, 15 April 2021 16:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1039
Registered: October 2018
Location: City of Lake Salt
Gruen Authority
Ok. Thanks for sharing. A lot packed in there.
I actually appreciate your skepticism bc all questions do is help me get at a more accurate date. Just bc I'm not convinced doesn't mean I won't help you hammer it down.
See, something's not making sense to me. This military watch of mine, cal 47, dates from 1915 to 1917. It has same "Gruen Watch Co" as oval. But you may not have seen that the SN is 4. How does this fit in to your theory?
/vgforum/index.php?t=getfile&id=8036&private=0



https://vintagegruen.org/vgforum/index.php?t=msg&th=1919 &start=0&


Matthias
Re: Oval Ribbon Wristlet [message #14777 is a reply to message #14775] Thu, 15 April 2021 17:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ephemerald
Messages: 1039
Registered: October 2018
Location: City of Lake Salt
Gruen Authority
Did you see this one?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Collectible-Gruen-14K-Solid -Gold-Manual-Wind-15J-58-Watch-Runs-lot-7-/124679760627


Matthias
Re: Oval Ribbon Wristlet [message #14778 is a reply to message #14777] Fri, 16 April 2021 03:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
I had not... it’s a beaut, Clark! And a caliber like your oval. As to where they fit, I’d rather say I’ll work on fitting to them. I see 2 possibilities:

- it’s a jumble (paraphrasing Barney)
- there’s a traceable line (launch time TBD)

Either way, let’s table it for the mo.
Re: Oval Ribbon Wristlet [message #14786 is a reply to message #14778] Thu, 22 April 2021 17:30 Go to previous message
Case is currently offline  Case
Messages: 1178
Registered: May 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Gruen Authority
Well, I've finally had a chance to look back at some earlier sterlings--I think you're correct in your dating here, Matthias. And my 1920 theory is DOA. I see the jumble, Barney! If there's sense to be made of the case sequence(s), it'll take a lot more digging.

I also recently saw a much earlier "2 adjustment" Caliber 100/101. I had heard in a past thread that this layout of the 100/101 was introduced in 1920 or 1921. But it appears to have been introduced earlier, possibly going back to 1913-1914.

So movement I'd agree is original, both case & movement earlier than I'd thought and in line with the OP.
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